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Rheen's Arete Direct Start
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 5
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Rheen's Arete Direct Start T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ray Ringle, late 1970s. |
| Page Views: | 818 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Oct 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is a great pitch to round out your day if you've come for classics like Beeline and are looking for more to do. It would be a 4-star pitch if not for some gravelly rock in places.
The name "Rheen's Arete Direct Start" is a little misleading in our modern era, as the route sports a 2-bolt anchor at 90' prior to actually joining Rheen's and I would imagine the majority of parties lower off there, although it is easy to continue 15 more feet into the first pitch of Rheen's.
The route is easy to find as it is the first crack system to the right of the arete that divides the east and south faces. It is to the right and just around the corner from the massive boulder that leans up against the wall, and starts just left of (and on) a smaller boulder that is about 20' high.
Stem up the boulder, place a couple pieces, then commit to the groove that leads to the first bolt, which protects the crux, insecure 5.10+ layback. (Getting to the bolt is a little spicy as a fall would be unpleasant; the climbing is around 5.9.) Clip bolt #2, then enter the awesome triple crack system and continue with steep, sustained 5.10 climbing with great gear, good rests, and one more bolt until the climbing finally eases off at the last bolt, which is about 10' below the anchor. Rap or lower with a 60-meter rope.
The name "Rheen's Arete Direct Start" is a little misleading in our modern era, as the route sports a 2-bolt anchor at 90' prior to actually joining Rheen's and I would imagine the majority of parties lower off there, although it is easy to continue 15 more feet into the first pitch of Rheen's.
The route is easy to find as it is the first crack system to the right of the arete that divides the east and south faces. It is to the right and just around the corner from the massive boulder that leans up against the wall, and starts just left of (and on) a smaller boulder that is about 20' high.
Stem up the boulder, place a couple pieces, then commit to the groove that leads to the first bolt, which protects the crux, insecure 5.10+ layback. (Getting to the bolt is a little spicy as a fall would be unpleasant; the climbing is around 5.9.) Clip bolt #2, then enter the awesome triple crack system and continue with steep, sustained 5.10 climbing with great gear, good rests, and one more bolt until the climbing finally eases off at the last bolt, which is about 10' below the anchor. Rap or lower with a 60-meter rope.
Protection
4 bolts + single rack from micro to a 3 camalot with a full set of nuts (there are a lot of good nut placements). Tanya's guide says to 4" but I was able to sew it up without, and the only wide spot (just above bolt #2) would actually require a 5" piece if you wanted to place something there. However, there is a #2 camalot in one more move.
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