Type: Trad, Aid, 1100 ft (333 m), 8 pitches, Grade V
FA: October 2019. Steve Bosque , Kevin DeWeese , Poston
Page Views: 1,581 total · 25/month
Shared By: Kevin DeWeese on Oct 27, 2019
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Lots and lots of beaking on thin cracks leading to a system of fingers to hands to fists to OW to chimney that ends in an awesome cave before the final pitch to the summit.

Rack:
  • Beaks: 8 large, 8 medium, 6 small
  • Arrows: a few small
  • Blades: a few thin
  • Angles: 1 each #1-2
  • Heads: 1-2 each #2 and #3
  • Rivet Hanger
  • Camhooks
  • Hooks 2 each Grappling and Cliffhanger
  • Nuts: 1 set
  • Cams:
    • 3 each 0.3"-4.5"
    • 2 each 6",
    • 1 optional  8"

  • Pitch 1: A2: 80’ of thin nailing to two bolt anchor below a small roof. Anchor visible from the base of the route.
  • Pitch 2: A2+: 120’ of thin nailing continuing up the continuously thin feature
  • Pitch 3: A2+: 200’ move right and down from the belay to move around a corner on easy free moves to a full rope length of thin to wide climbing finishing with an intricate and discontinuous beak system to reach the belay in the center of the wall.
  • Pitch 4: A2: 120’ Move right from the belay to reach a rivet via beaks in a bottoming and loose crack, tension around a corner to establish yourself on hooks to make a traverse (protectable with hidden arrow placements) to a laser-cut arrow corner that allows you to reach over to a perfect hand crack on the opposite wall. Follow this to a slanting ledge before moving through a gently overhanging and loose groove to anchor.
  • Pitch 5: A1: 200’ Continue up dirty climbing through a few ledges, carefully avoiding a precarious stack of loose blocks towards the top of the pitch.
  • Pitch 6: A2+: 120’ Move left to establish yourself in a left-facing corner system taking cams, thin pitons, and heads to a hooking traverse along a flake system to the anchors.
  • Pitch 7: 5.7 C1: 130’ of steep hands to fist before establishing yourself in a chimney system requiring mandatory free climbing to reach the belay cave at the end of the pitch.
  • Pitch 8: C1: 110’ Move to back of the cave and climb out the back up easy aid to blocky climbing to the anchors.
Write Up of Climb: failfalling.com/ClimbingBlo…!

Location Suggest change

Left front side of Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. Starts a few feet to the right of the bushes. First anchors are visible 80' up under a small rooflet

Protection Suggest change

All anchors are two 3.8" bolts. Route anchors are equipped with stainless rap rings and dedicated rap anchors for an easy highway back to the ground.

Photos

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