Type: Trad, Aid, 2800 ft (848 m), 24 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Warren Harding & Dean Caldwell (1970)
Page Views: 4,580 total · 68/month
Shared By: Matthew Bernstein on Oct 22, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This Historic route features long sections of rivets with a few memorable natural sections in the first two thirds of the route with a stellar natural section on the last third of the route. The whole route is in a stunning position of the wall, with killer exposure from the top of the second or third pitch all the way to the top out. Although possibly not as classic as Porter's1972 Route, New Dawn, which accesses the same upper pitches, those looking for a moderate romp up the Dawn Wall should consider this as a logistically easy and perhaps quicker option as the lower two thirds climb rather quickly due to the number of riveted pitches.

As of October 2019, most of Harding's original aluminum rivets are still in place, and for the most part in good condition! Some however are bent, so make sure you bring a huge variety of rivet hangers, including the cinch variety. 20 rivet hangers wouldn't be an unreasonable amount, with an emphasis on small and medium sized wire hangers, as the old aluminum rivets are pretty tight against the wall, and the larger wire hangers tend to pop off as You climb above them.

Location Suggest change

This route starts between Mescalito and The Alcove. Look for some bolts on a lower angle slab near the start. The route shares about a pitch and a half of terrain with Mescalito from part way through pitch 6 of WEML to the top of pitch 8, and then heads left from Mescalito, trending towards the obvious Harding Roof near the top of the Dawn Wall area. Make sure to stop at Wino Tower for a night, which is the only good ledge until you get within a couple pitches of the top.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Wall Rack up to a single #6. 20 rivet hangers with an emphasis on small and medium wire hangers, some of those being the cinch variety. Beaks: 3 small, 4 medium, 8 to 10 large. Hooks and camhooks. Bolt Kit.

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