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Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World
5.10d,
Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
FA: Lisa & Dave Montgomery, 2019
Colorado
> S Platte
> Cathedral Spire…
> Sunshine Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info:
jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates:
jeffco.us/open-space/parks/… Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This new 2 pitch line is a fun mix of offwidth and face/slab climbing. We're listing it as a sport climb, but you do need a couple of #4s and a #2/#3 Camalot for the initial offwidth shared with Squatter's Rights.
Pitch 1 (10d/11a; 35m; 9 bolts + gear): start in the right #4 crack for Squatter's Rights. Climb this fun, well-protected offwidth to a big ledge where the face climbing begins. Leaving the ledge, there is a hollow flake that you must pull and mantel on. It sounds bad but is completely attached on the left, so I don't think it will go anywhere. The bolting leaving the ledge is tight, but they get further apart as you get higher up. Expect a couple of semi-exciting mantels. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor at a small stance. It is all of a 70m rope to lower from here, so knot your ends!
Pitch 2 (10c; 17m; 6 bolts): tip toe up the slab past a few bolts. The rock is a bit more crumbly on this pitch but hopefully will clean up over time. The position is great and the top of the route is a mini-tower, so it's worth doing.
Location
It is about 100 yards left of
Arch Nemesis (where the trail meets the wall initially as you hike up).
Protection
70m rope! (1x) #3 Camalot, (2-3x) #4 Camalot, draws, and slings.
Golden, CO