Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World

5.10d, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Lisa & Dave Montgomery, 2019
Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Sunshine Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

This new 2 pitch line is a fun mix of offwidth and face/slab climbing. We're listing it as a sport climb, but you do need a couple of #4s and a #2/#3 Camalot for the initial offwidth shared with Squatter's Rights.

Pitch 1 (10d/11a; 35m; 9 bolts + gear): start in the right #4 crack for Squatter's Rights. Climb this fun, well-protected offwidth to a big ledge where the face climbing begins. Leaving the ledge, there is a hollow flake that you must pull and mantel on. It sounds bad but is completely attached on the left, so I don't think it will go anywhere. The bolting leaving the ledge is tight, but they get further apart as you get higher up. Expect a couple of semi-exciting mantels. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor at a small stance. It is all of a 70m rope to lower from here, so knot your ends!

Pitch 2 (10c; 17m; 6 bolts): tip toe up the slab past a few bolts. The rock is a bit more crumbly on this pitch but hopefully will clean up over time. The position is great and the top of the route is a mini-tower, so it's worth doing.

Location

It is about 100 yards left of Arch Nemesis (where the trail meets the wall initially as you hike up).

Protection

70m rope! (1x) #3 Camalot, (2-3x) #4 Camalot, draws, and slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The wonderful face that makes up the bulk of P1.
[Hide Photo] The wonderful face that makes up the bulk of P1.
Lisa snagging the FA of P1.
[Hide Photo] Lisa snagging the FA of P1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route yesterday for the first time since the FA back in 2019. I forgot how fun this route is! To alleviate drag up high, consider using 24" slings on every piece in the initial offwidth. Feb 19, 2023