Type: Sport, 410 ft (124 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: T&H Hepner 2010
Page Views: 705 total · 10/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Oct 8, 2019
Admins: Matthew Clawson, Dan Flynn

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Description Suggest change

P1 - 25m 5.10b
Shares the same first pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U bolt belay on right.

P2 - 26m 5.10a
Plumb-line up black wall on bolts to a two bolt belay.

P3 - 21m 5.10a
Up and left under roof on orange rock using a runner on third bolt. Stem up corner, move around roof and traverse right onto wall above to belay anchor.

P4 - 23m 5.11a Trend slightly right and up passing good features to a small overlap. Crimp your way left past the roof and onto the black wall above to a bolted  belay.

P5 - 25m 5.9  Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend a belay from a tree 5m further up slope.

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).

Location Suggest change

30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. ~25 mins walk in from carpark.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts

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