Along The Ley Line
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Jared Guglielmo, Jeremy Jonas, Dan Wilson, Andy Bennett, Mitch Beiser, Will Butierez |
Page Views: | 2,868 total · 43/month |
Shared By: | Jared Guglielmo on Oct 1, 2019 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Warm up your cheeks for some all smiles feature hopping guaranteed to test all your Reef know-how. Three beautifully sustained new pitches followed by a classic old school Reef romp really make this a special route.
Pitch 1 | 5.12: Start with 5.11 climbing on bolts to pleasant fingers and thin hands in a corner (use your slings). Clip a bolt at the top of the corner and begin a traverse left, passing some fiddly gear on a brief moment of easier ground. Ahead is a techy dihedral protected by thin gear followed by 30 feet of wild undercling lay backing up a flake. The pitch ends at a bolted anchor on the slanting ledge that the giant Om chimney/flake sits on. Plug a piece under the flake while sitting on the ledge to prevent your partner from shredding the rope if they blow the last moves!!!
Rack: 7 bolts, single set to #1 C4, with doubles in 00 - .5 C4, nuts
Pitch 2 | 5.12 - : Sport clip your way through steep and featured terrain taking you to the base of a curving flake and left leaning corner. A fairly short crux comes at the corner and is protected by good RPs/00. Belay at an awkward stance with two bolts.
Rack: 5 bolts, double to #1C4, micro nuts
Pitch 3 | 5.11: The Concrete Dihedral. Hands narrowing down to tips with an awesome mini roof traverse at the end. Check your GPS, you may not believe you are on Mt. Lemmon. Belay at two bolts on the ledge above the tree.
Rack: Doubles to #1 C4. Extra .5 and .75 C4s could be useful if you like a lot of gear.
Pitch 4 | 5.10+R: An old school romp up the last pitch of Snow Arch. There is some good climbing on this pitch but a lot to tip toe around and a spicy crux above the ledge.
Rack: Doubles to #1, single #2
Descent: The entire route is equipped with bolts and chain anchors, but I do not advise trying to rap after P2. Three options exist if continuing to the top: 1) rap Seaweed Superhighway. The anchors are the second set you’ll see while following the east edge of Poseidon from the top out of Ley Line. They are probably 75’ away. The anchors are a little spicy to get to and the rap route isn’t very straight forward so see that route’s description. 2) walk down the loose gully to the west. There is a secret passage to get you back on the starting ledge if you left anything. See Poseidon main page comments for details. 3) Head home from the summit by following a complicated, faint trail back to the ridge above The Reef. No options are ideal but none are completely horrendous.
Location
Access the large ledge that cuts across the north face of Poseidon via an awkward and unprotected 15' of 5.8 followed by a 40’ x-rated cat walk to the right. This access “pitch” starts straight across the gully from where the trail leads you. Best to rack up here if planning to go to the top.
The direct bolted start begins just right of the big arch and the gear protected start is 15' further right.
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