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Escape From Vaudeville
5.8,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 1.2 from 16
votes
FA: Zach Orenczak, Mark Roberts, Megin Rux, Sept. 2000, ground up
Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Poland Hill
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
This is definitely an eyesore bolt line, but it's there, so either chop it or climb it.
From the Zach Orenczak guidebook (added here for completeness: the guidebook has an R rating and only one bolt. Someone bolted the rest of this thing): use the flake to the right of Sugar Crack, and climb the obvious bolt line on the face. This is very similar to Pretty on Nautilus - friction and crystal pinching.
Location
Protection
4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. A #1 cam can be placed about 2/3 of the way up the crack to protect the bottom.
[Hide Photo] A view of the crack at the start. The X marks the location of the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Climb the obvious bolt line to the right of the crack.
[Hide Photo] A close up shot of the route. Sugar Crack is on the left.
Boulder, CO