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Escape From Vaudeville

5.8, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 16 votes
FA: Zach Orenczak, Mark Roberts, Megin Rux, Sept. 2000, ground up
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Poland Hill
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form DetailsDrop down

Description

This is definitely an eyesore bolt line, but it's there, so either chop it or climb it.

From the Zach Orenczak guidebook (added here for completeness: the guidebook has an R rating and only one bolt. Someone bolted the rest of this thing): use the flake to the right of Sugar Crack, and climb the obvious bolt line on the face. This is very similar to Pretty on Nautilus - friction and crystal pinching.

Location

It is the bolted line to the right of Sugar Crack.

Protection

4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.  A #1 cam can be placed about 2/3 of the way up the crack to protect the bottom.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view of the crack at the start. The X marks the location of the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] A view of the crack at the start. The X marks the location of the first bolt.
Climb the obvious bolt line to the right of the crack.
[Hide Photo] Climb the obvious bolt line to the right of the crack.
A close up shot of the route. Sugar Crack is on the left.
[Hide Photo] A close up shot of the route. Sugar Crack is on the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is an example of a horrible route and what should not be done at Vedauwoo. Instead of bolting a subpar route and detracting from the beautiful crack, you could just toprope it. Sep 17, 2019
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A #1 cam can be placed about two thirds of the way up the crack to protect the start. Sep 15, 2024