Escape From Vaudeville
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Zach Orenczak, Mark Roberts, Megin Rux, Sept. 2000, ground up |
Page Views: | 1,057 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Cory N on Sep 15, 2019 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This is definitely an eyesore bolt line, but it's there, so either chop it or climb it.
From the Zach Orenczak guidebook (added here for completeness: the guidebook has an R rating and only one bolt. Someone bolted the rest of this thing): use the flake to the right of Sugar Crack, and climb the obvious bolt line on the face. This is very similar to Pretty on Nautilus - friction and crystal pinching.
Protection
1 bolt and a 2 bolt anchor. A #1 cam can be placed about 2/3 of the way up the crack to protect the bottom.
Per Sarah Meiser: the hangers have been removed from the 3 new bolts. Only the original hanger remains.
3 Comments