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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 3. Southeast Face
Eagle's Way
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A3
Avg: 3.6 from 9
votes
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Eagle's Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1700 ft (515 m), 14 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | June 1976, Mark Chapman, Jim Orey. Mike Graham |
| Page Views: | 2,679 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Steven T on Sep 8, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Eagle's Way is a great route that follows some large features up the far right side of El Cap. The rock is generally solid with occasional loose sections and the climbing is a step up in difficulty from the Zodiac or Shield. Some of the fixed anchors could be replaced, as most of them consist of one good bolt in addition to one or two less-than-inspiring bolts/rivets.
The route starts out with five pitches of mostly fast and moderate free climbing that wanders up to a steep headwall. The first two pitches have some interesting free/aid traversing for those who don't plan to free climb the poorly protected 5.10-5.11 sections. The headwall is steep and sustained, never too difficult but often thought-provoking. The most difficult climbing is in thin cracks that take many beaks and sections of fixed junk (rusty broken RURPs/questionable heads). Near the top, you get to climb the amazing "C1 Beauty" which is one of the most striking splitters on El Cap.
As of September 2019, the route was pretty clean. Beware of some junk ropes hanging near pitch 5, they are not fixed to anything and I was alarmed to discover this after thoughtlessly yarding on them for some short sections. Eagle's Way is a solid option if you're looking to avoid crowds and check out a cool part of the wall that doesn't get climbed too often.
The route starts out with five pitches of mostly fast and moderate free climbing that wanders up to a steep headwall. The first two pitches have some interesting free/aid traversing for those who don't plan to free climb the poorly protected 5.10-5.11 sections. The headwall is steep and sustained, never too difficult but often thought-provoking. The most difficult climbing is in thin cracks that take many beaks and sections of fixed junk (rusty broken RURPs/questionable heads). Near the top, you get to climb the amazing "C1 Beauty" which is one of the most striking splitters on El Cap.
As of September 2019, the route was pretty clean. Beware of some junk ropes hanging near pitch 5, they are not fixed to anything and I was alarmed to discover this after thoughtlessly yarding on them for some short sections. Eagle's Way is a solid option if you're looking to avoid crowds and check out a cool part of the wall that doesn't get climbed too often.
Protection
Cams: 3 x 0.1- 1, 2 x 2- 3, 1 x 4- 5, the C1 Beauty pitch eats up small cams (0.2 and smaller) and some offsets are useful
Nuts: Single set, with a selection of smaller offsets
Beaks: ~10 large beaks, several each medium/small
Hooks: 2 x grappling, skyhook, talon
~10 Rivet hangers, several cinch-style for dowels
Nuts: Single set, with a selection of smaller offsets
Beaks: ~10 large beaks, several each medium/small
Hooks: 2 x grappling, skyhook, talon
~10 Rivet hangers, several cinch-style for dowels
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