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Routes in Cotton Club
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Biscuit World Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brittle Covenants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Calculus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Commitment Issues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Copper-Colored Transitions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Deregulation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diggie Diggie Doo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dying for a Living S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Essence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exit The Gift Shop T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fandango T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flaming Butterflies T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flaming Caterpillars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Government Overreach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidie Hidie Ho S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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His S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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House of Cards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Le Petit Mort S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Management Wore Masks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Master Gardener T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Minnie the Moocher S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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My Anaconda Don't T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mystery Hole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orchestration For a Dance S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pocketing the Profits S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pumpy, Monkey, Baby T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Hot Hoochie Coocher S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Right of His Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sequence of Events S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shack Rouster S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Solar Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sometimes the Wolf T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surreality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tanning Bed T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ventilator Shaft T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Witness at Hawk's Nest S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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You Party Too Much S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Phil Townsend 2014 |
| Page Views: | 897 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Pnelson on Sep 8, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Start up an easy flake to a high first bolt, moving via more friable flakes to a precarious stance under a roof. Make the crux move over the roof, and cruise up dirtier rock to the anchors.
Location
This is the farthest left of the climbs on Government Buttress, a stately prow of slab and vertical Nuttall Sandstone that juts out toward the New River from the otherwise chossy cliffband of Cotton Club. Look for an obvious "air conditioner" corner crack that separates the buttress from the main cliffline.
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