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Routes in * via ferrata
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Panorama Klettersteig C0 |
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Rudl Eller Weg S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a C0 PG13 |
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vf Laserz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, Aid, 1600 ft (485 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 487 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Sep 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath |
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Description
Very long sustained route protected with fixed cable on big wall with lots of nice holds and moves
. . . (could be linked with other VF routes to make it even longer).
Laserz Klettersteig . . .
* 3-4 short sequences much harder than the rest.
* Free style can be done all at 5.9 difficulty.
* Limestone rich in holds
* West facing
* Approach straightforward (but not short) much on maintained marked trails.
* Descent (not short) almost all on maintained marked trails.
* Bike possible for much of approach + descent.
* Loose rock hazard (like any limestone route, nowhere as bad as some).
If starting from parking and not using bike (and not wet or snowy), highly recommended to take Rudl Eller Weg for more scenic + interesting approach to VF Laserz.
Approach: see below under Location.
Climb: Follow the cable.
Descent: From top of via ferrata cable around ?GPS? walk ENE about 400 ft across the summit of the Klein Laserzwand to reach maintained hiking trail at a col / pass. Down the trail first E, next S, SE, then long wide toward SW and down to reach wide gravel road around (N46.7636 E12.8033), and down that back to Parking -- though most head first quick for snack + drink at the Karlsbader hut.
. . . (or true mountain "animals" instead of descending, could continue E to the start of the VF Panorama and VF Ari Schübel for a giant ridge + peak traverse eventually leading to the Karlsbader hut -- but VF Laserz is already itself a long route, so best to try this only with an early start from the K hut, not from Parking).
warning: The placement of (or distance between) the cable-to-rock attachment posts is often _not_ designed to prevent injury if climber falls on some of the difficult sequences -- weating a normal Via Ferrata kit with harness, used following the "normal" VF protocol.
For more details and other protection options, see below under "Protection".
. . . (could be linked with other VF routes to make it even longer).
Laserz Klettersteig . . .
* 3-4 short sequences much harder than the rest.
* Free style can be done all at 5.9 difficulty.
* Limestone rich in holds
* West facing
* Approach straightforward (but not short) much on maintained marked trails.
* Descent (not short) almost all on maintained marked trails.
* Bike possible for much of approach + descent.
* Loose rock hazard (like any limestone route, nowhere as bad as some).
If starting from parking and not using bike (and not wet or snowy), highly recommended to take Rudl Eller Weg for more scenic + interesting approach to VF Laserz.
Approach: see below under Location.
Climb: Follow the cable.
Descent: From top of via ferrata cable around ?GPS? walk ENE about 400 ft across the summit of the Klein Laserzwand to reach maintained hiking trail at a col / pass. Down the trail first E, next S, SE, then long wide toward SW and down to reach wide gravel road around (N46.7636 E12.8033), and down that back to Parking -- though most head first quick for snack + drink at the Karlsbader hut.
. . . (or true mountain "animals" instead of descending, could continue E to the start of the VF Panorama and VF Ari Schübel for a giant ridge + peak traverse eventually leading to the Karlsbader hut -- but VF Laserz is already itself a long route, so best to try this only with an early start from the K hut, not from Parking).
warning: The placement of (or distance between) the cable-to-rock attachment posts is often _not_ designed to prevent injury if climber falls on some of the difficult sequences -- weating a normal Via Ferrata kit with harness, used following the "normal" VF protocol.
For more details and other protection options, see below under "Protection".
Location
Start of Via Ferrata at GPS latitude longitude approx (N46.7712 E12.7983)
Driving + Parking - - > see Lienzer Dolomites area page
Bike or Hike main up to K hut - - > see Lienzer Dolomites area page
Approach options . . .
a) from Parking, hike + scramble the Rudl Eller Weg (hiking route 14) to reach sign for VF Laserz Klettersteig.
- - > See route description page for Rudl Eller Weg.
Reach sign for VF about (N46.7711 E12.7979). Turn off trail L and hike/scramble E about 100 ft up steep slope to reach VF cable.
b) from the Karlsbader hut, walk gentle down the wide gravel road about 2000 ft first E then N then W to reach sign around (N46.7663 E12.7988) for "Rudl Eller Weg". Turn off road R onto hiking trail 14 and go roughly N on hiking rail 14 about 1500 ft to reach sign for VF about (N46.7711 E12.7979). Turn off trail R and hike/scramble E about 100 ft up steep slope to reach VF cable.
c) hike from Parking up toward the Karlsbader hut,
- - > see Lienzer Dolomites area page
But leave the wide gravel road lower at a curve right-ward around (N46.7690 E12.7927), or a short bit higher around (N46.7689 E12.7922) onto climbers herd path at first SE, then E, then NE up to meet hiking trail 14.
Or continue higher on wide road to reach sign around (N46.7661 E12.7916) to take a more "official" path roughly ENE to reach trail 14.
d) bike from Parking up toward the Karlsbader hut,
but stop pedaling up the wide gravel road lower, roughly around a big curve left with sign approx (N46.7661 E12.7916). Leave bike there and hike on trail roughly ENE to reach trail 14. Or to get more use of bike on descent, continue pedaling a ways higher E to reach a sign for "Rudl Eller Weg" around (N46.7663 E12.7988). Leave bike there, turn off road L and hike N on hiking trail 14 about 1500 ft to reach sign for VF about (N46.7711 E12.7979). Turn off trail up East and hike/scramble about 100 ft up steep slope to reach VF cable.
GPS useful waypoints:
* Parking near Dolomiten hut : (N46.7909 E12.7847).
* start of Rudl Eller Weg trail 14 : (N46.7872 E12.7849)
* leave hiking trail 14 to scramble up east to VF : (N46.7711 E12.7979)
* VF bottom start : (N46.7712 E12.7983)
* VF cable top : (N46.7702 E12.8012)
. . . (near summit of Klein Laserzwand).
* Karlsbader hut : (N46.7630 E12.8011)
Driving + Parking - - > see Lienzer Dolomites area page
Bike or Hike main up to K hut - - > see Lienzer Dolomites area page
Approach options . . .
a) from Parking, hike + scramble the Rudl Eller Weg (hiking route 14) to reach sign for VF Laserz Klettersteig.
- - > See route description page for Rudl Eller Weg.
Reach sign for VF about (N46.7711 E12.7979). Turn off trail L and hike/scramble E about 100 ft up steep slope to reach VF cable.
b) from the Karlsbader hut, walk gentle down the wide gravel road about 2000 ft first E then N then W to reach sign around (N46.7663 E12.7988) for "Rudl Eller Weg". Turn off road R onto hiking trail 14 and go roughly N on hiking rail 14 about 1500 ft to reach sign for VF about (N46.7711 E12.7979). Turn off trail R and hike/scramble E about 100 ft up steep slope to reach VF cable.
c) hike from Parking up toward the Karlsbader hut,
- - > see Lienzer Dolomites area page
But leave the wide gravel road lower at a curve right-ward around (N46.7690 E12.7927), or a short bit higher around (N46.7689 E12.7922) onto climbers herd path at first SE, then E, then NE up to meet hiking trail 14.
Or continue higher on wide road to reach sign around (N46.7661 E12.7916) to take a more "official" path roughly ENE to reach trail 14.
d) bike from Parking up toward the Karlsbader hut,
but stop pedaling up the wide gravel road lower, roughly around a big curve left with sign approx (N46.7661 E12.7916). Leave bike there and hike on trail roughly ENE to reach trail 14. Or to get more use of bike on descent, continue pedaling a ways higher E to reach a sign for "Rudl Eller Weg" around (N46.7663 E12.7988). Leave bike there, turn off road L and hike N on hiking trail 14 about 1500 ft to reach sign for VF about (N46.7711 E12.7979). Turn off trail up East and hike/scramble about 100 ft up steep slope to reach VF cable.
GPS useful waypoints:
* Parking near Dolomiten hut : (N46.7909 E12.7847).
* start of Rudl Eller Weg trail 14 : (N46.7872 E12.7849)
* leave hiking trail 14 to scramble up east to VF : (N46.7711 E12.7979)
* VF bottom start : (N46.7712 E12.7983)
* VF cable top : (N46.7702 E12.8012)
. . . (near summit of Klein Laserzwand).
* Karlsbader hut : (N46.7630 E12.8011)
Protection
warning:
. . . Like most VF routes around Austria (and the Dolomites) . . .
When using a "normal" Via Ferrata kit following the "normal" protocol:
The structure and placement of the fixed hardware is often not designed to prevent injury if actually take a fall on one of the harder (or not so hard) sequences or moves on the route. If you fall, you could easily get seriously injured from hitting protruding rock or fixed hardware, or from high-fall-factor impact on the VF protection apparatus.
Therefore, unless you are "solid" climbing low 5th class difficultly on outdoor rock, wearing a special Via Ferrata kit like the Skylotec Rider used with its manufacturer-recommended protocols is highly recommended to prevent injury -- assuming you will make many moves using fixed hardward for Aid.
. . . (or get a rope belay from above performed by a Lead climber stronger or using safer non-normal equipment or protocol).
If you desire to try climbing a high percentage (but not all) of sequences "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock, using the fixed hardware only to clip for Protection, not Aid), then . . .
unless you are strong for climbing sustained 5.10 on outdoor rock, wearing a special Via Ferrata kit like the Skylotec Rider used with its manufacturer-recommended protocols is highly recommended to prevent injury.
. . . (or get a rope belay from above performed by a Lead climber stronger or using safer non-normal equipment or protocol).
. . . (another strategy to reduce distance of fall in some sections might be to clip a lanyard of a "normal" VF kit to one of the steel rungs / stemples, instead of to the cable).
. . . Like most VF routes around Austria (and the Dolomites) . . .
Cable-to-rock anchor points do not have rubber bumpers like some modern-construction VF routes.
. . . Like most VF routes around Austria (and the Dolomites) . . .
Cable-to-rock anchor points do not have built-in "pigs tails" like some modern-construction VF routes -- through which a lead climber could run a rope through to belay following climber(s).
. . . Like most VF routes around Austria (and the Dolomites) . . .
When using a "normal" Via Ferrata kit following the "normal" protocol:
The structure and placement of the fixed hardware is often not designed to prevent injury if actually take a fall on one of the harder (or not so hard) sequences or moves on the route. If you fall, you could easily get seriously injured from hitting protruding rock or fixed hardware, or from high-fall-factor impact on the VF protection apparatus.
Therefore, unless you are "solid" climbing low 5th class difficultly on outdoor rock, wearing a special Via Ferrata kit like the Skylotec Rider used with its manufacturer-recommended protocols is highly recommended to prevent injury -- assuming you will make many moves using fixed hardward for Aid.
. . . (or get a rope belay from above performed by a Lead climber stronger or using safer non-normal equipment or protocol).
If you desire to try climbing a high percentage (but not all) of sequences "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock, using the fixed hardware only to clip for Protection, not Aid), then . . .
unless you are strong for climbing sustained 5.10 on outdoor rock, wearing a special Via Ferrata kit like the Skylotec Rider used with its manufacturer-recommended protocols is highly recommended to prevent injury.
. . . (or get a rope belay from above performed by a Lead climber stronger or using safer non-normal equipment or protocol).
. . . (another strategy to reduce distance of fall in some sections might be to clip a lanyard of a "normal" VF kit to one of the steel rungs / stemples, instead of to the cable).
. . . Like most VF routes around Austria (and the Dolomites) . . .
Cable-to-rock anchor points do not have rubber bumpers like some modern-construction VF routes.
. . . Like most VF routes around Austria (and the Dolomites) . . .
Cable-to-rock anchor points do not have built-in "pigs tails" like some modern-construction VF routes -- through which a lead climber could run a rope through to belay following climber(s).
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