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Routes in Excalibur
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Excalibur 6b T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lancelot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | P. Lechner, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 911 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Flynn on Aug 31, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
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Description
Get ready for a maximum-value day. Nothing comes easy in Wendenstöcke, so don't be fooled by the moderate technical grades!
P1 - 6a+
'Intro' pitch 1
P2 - 6b
'Intro' pitch 2. Nothing particularly hard, except a bit of route finding. At the top, trend left and find one bolt protecting a mini boulder problem; belay at anchors right below the grassy ledge.
P3 - 6b
Technical crux. First real pitch of the climb off the grassy ledge, start where it says 'Excalibur' in blue, head up and left. At the third bolt, get to the cruxy moves on stellar, gray, compact limestone. Super fun. Run it out to a piton and then run it out to the anchors.
P4 - 6a
Fun pitch
P5 - 5c+
Layback in a nice, steep, easy crack. All gear protected.
P6 - 6a
Layback / crimp
P7 - 6a
AMAZING traverse pitch. Crimp hard and gain the arete, whoop it up to the top.
P8 - 6a+
Mental crux. Don't go to the nice crack over to the right! Go straight up from the belay, you'll see one bolt and then an engaging stretch of hard crimping, eventually getting to a sling through a hueco. Traverse left for the only other bolt on the pitch. I found a 0.3 BD cam to be helpful.
Going to the left runs you into a 6c+ pitch of Lancelot.
P9 - 5c+
Traversing over fun big holds, then lay back up on some slightly crappy rock up to the anchors.
P10 - 4c.
Pretty bad pitch, I managed to put in a few crappy nuts, but it does get you to the top of the tower and a nice view.
Excellent trip report here: https://stat.ethz.ch/~dettling/excalibur.html
Additional trip reports are around on the web, e.g. (Google Translated from German) here
P1 - 6a+
'Intro' pitch 1
P2 - 6b
'Intro' pitch 2. Nothing particularly hard, except a bit of route finding. At the top, trend left and find one bolt protecting a mini boulder problem; belay at anchors right below the grassy ledge.
P3 - 6b
Technical crux. First real pitch of the climb off the grassy ledge, start where it says 'Excalibur' in blue, head up and left. At the third bolt, get to the cruxy moves on stellar, gray, compact limestone. Super fun. Run it out to a piton and then run it out to the anchors.
P4 - 6a
Fun pitch
P5 - 5c+
Layback in a nice, steep, easy crack. All gear protected.
P6 - 6a
Layback / crimp
P7 - 6a
AMAZING traverse pitch. Crimp hard and gain the arete, whoop it up to the top.
P8 - 6a+
Mental crux. Don't go to the nice crack over to the right! Go straight up from the belay, you'll see one bolt and then an engaging stretch of hard crimping, eventually getting to a sling through a hueco. Traverse left for the only other bolt on the pitch. I found a 0.3 BD cam to be helpful.
Going to the left runs you into a 6c+ pitch of Lancelot.
P9 - 5c+
Traversing over fun big holds, then lay back up on some slightly crappy rock up to the anchors.
P10 - 4c.
Pretty bad pitch, I managed to put in a few crappy nuts, but it does get you to the top of the tower and a nice view.
Excellent trip report here: https://stat.ethz.ch/~dettling/excalibur.html
Additional trip reports are around on the web, e.g. (Google Translated from German) here
Location
After the first two pitches on the 'Vorbau', walk over the grassy ledge to the left. The route name is painted in blue at the start. The first bolt is about 5 m up to the left (cam possible beforehand).
Protection
You will need a rack from 0.3 - 3. Nuts can be helpful as well. We placed nearly everything we brought. Don't need many draws, because there aren't many bolts!
Descent
Many of the rappels are overhanging. We linked the top two (P10 and P9), which was a bit spooky and not sure I'd recommend that. Otherwise the only pitches you can abseil together are P3 and P4 to the grassy ledge.
From the base of the route (start of P1), you can do at least one more abseil down to the climber's right (where you walked up from). We then just coiled ropes and downscrambled slowly to get back to the 'path'. This was not trivial. On one topo, we saw another abseilpiste marked, but didn't find it.
From the base of the route (start of P1), you can do at least one more abseil down to the climber's right (where you walked up from). We then just coiled ropes and downscrambled slowly to get back to the 'path'. This was not trivial. On one topo, we saw another abseilpiste marked, but didn't find it.
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