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Question of Balance
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
Routes in The Comp Wall
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Companeros T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Vida T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Natural Grooves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Competition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Question of Balance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shake 'n' Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shop and Compare T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Splitter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight outta Compton T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Women's Semi-Qualifier S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Engle, Chris Barnes 2015 |
| Page Views: | 873 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chris and Freda on Aug 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Excellent route on the South face of Comp Wall with (as eloquently described in the Bingham guide) an awesome, exposed face to the top of the wall. The route does not actually top out, although it may be possible to bypass the chains and continue on to the top; we didn’t attempt that.
P1. Start with P1of La Vida on gear and then, when bolts appear, take the left bolt line which breaks off at about the fourth bolt on La Vida. Cruise a few more bolts to a set of bolts with chains. See La Vida for the complexities on this pitch.
P2. 5.10a Slab, thin and steep in spots. Follow bolts to a big ledge with a set of bolts with chains on the left wall above the ledge.
P3. 5.10c Thin start onto a balancy mantel leads to an intimidating-looking bulge that is great fun. A crux may be the last move to the chains...I have to put an asterisk on my send as I french freed on a chain.
There is a variation on P3 called La Vida Loca that takes a line of bolts left after the mantel. We didn’t do it and the book rates it at 5.11a.
Rappel the route with a 70m rope. It looks like a 60m would work fine.
P1. Start with P1of La Vida on gear and then, when bolts appear, take the left bolt line which breaks off at about the fourth bolt on La Vida. Cruise a few more bolts to a set of bolts with chains. See La Vida for the complexities on this pitch.
P2. 5.10a Slab, thin and steep in spots. Follow bolts to a big ledge with a set of bolts with chains on the left wall above the ledge.
P3. 5.10c Thin start onto a balancy mantel leads to an intimidating-looking bulge that is great fun. A crux may be the last move to the chains...I have to put an asterisk on my send as I french freed on a chain.
There is a variation on P3 called La Vida Loca that takes a line of bolts left after the mantel. We didn’t do it and the book rates it at 5.11a.
Rappel the route with a 70m rope. It looks like a 60m would work fine.
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