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Routes in Broom Wall/Rasputin Ledge
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Witches Broom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Magnificent 7, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spellbound S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rasputin D. Scalwag S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scalded Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Altered States S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tempest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Old and in the way T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Hole, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drop Zone, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Rumors of War (Extension) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Warm Up Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Saddam Hussein S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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441 S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rambo S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Puff the Magic Dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Swiss Chocolate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Alpine Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bad Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Acquiescence S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Homeboy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Chum Nov 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,400 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | chummer on Aug 26, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
The Magnificent 7 climbs the prominent ships prow arete directly above Witches Broom. It is arguably the most classic arete climb at the Obed, and perhaps in all of Tennessee in my biased opinion. The stone is legit flawless and the position is super out there. You'll definitely be checking your knot up there.
The crux is at the very top and employs a divine sequence of moves that makes you wonder if it was intelligently designed. It is not a quick tick and requires some advanced sport climbing rope techniques. However, It is worth the effort.
The full pitch requires you to climb techy thin face, burly roof and crack moves, and finish with delicate and balancey arete climbing. It'll test you.
The crux is at the very top and employs a divine sequence of moves that makes you wonder if it was intelligently designed. It is not a quick tick and requires some advanced sport climbing rope techniques. However, It is worth the effort.
The full pitch requires you to climb techy thin face, burly roof and crack moves, and finish with delicate and balancey arete climbing. It'll test you.
Location
Climb witches broom but at the 2nd to last bolt step left into a dihedral and climb easier ground to the base of the roof crack. Climb the roof crack to a two bolt belay. The start of the crack is often wet but the worst of the wet holds can be avoided if you're careful.
You basically have 3 options to prevent rope drag. All 3 methods require more than your average sport climbing effort:
1. Use super long draws on the last few bolts of WB and in the roof.
2.Clip in to the 2 bolt anchor above roof crack and pull the rope through the draws of WB. Use the anchor bolts on the 2nd pitch. (clip anchor long. use a locker or two opposite/opposed biners) Make sure YOU"RE ON BELAY (!!) Continue up the arete rope drag free. (recommended)
3. Use double ropes.
A 70 meter rope is necessary to get down from the upper anchor. But if you want to clean your gear off WB I recommend re-threading the rope thru the anchor at the base of the arete and cleaning in 2 pitches. Again, not convenient but worth it. You could TR the full line to clean too.
You basically have 3 options to prevent rope drag. All 3 methods require more than your average sport climbing effort:
1. Use super long draws on the last few bolts of WB and in the roof.
2.Clip in to the 2 bolt anchor above roof crack and pull the rope through the draws of WB. Use the anchor bolts on the 2nd pitch. (clip anchor long. use a locker or two opposite/opposed biners) Make sure YOU"RE ON BELAY (!!) Continue up the arete rope drag free. (recommended)
3. Use double ropes.
A 70 meter rope is necessary to get down from the upper anchor. But if you want to clean your gear off WB I recommend re-threading the rope thru the anchor at the base of the arete and cleaning in 2 pitches. Again, not convenient but worth it. You could TR the full line to clean too.
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