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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Harvey Carter (?) |
| Page Views: | 642 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Choss on Aug 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
I am unsure of the true route name and first ascensionist, but my guess is it was first done by Harvey C. or the Army. This is an old and forgotten route with easy crumbly slab through a fun, short, blocky bulge and headwall with mostly questionable rock and equally questionable pro (PG-13). Pro is supplemented with some small to medium gear and, from what I could find, 5 very old looking pitons (pins). Sparse gear can be found. Finish by moving slightly right at the 3rd pin, then directly above by using long cord/sling to anchor off of the large tree.
Location
Start by wandering up the crumbly slab left of the large pine at the base up to the left-arching roof, and go straight up to the big tree above.
Protection
A 70m rope is needed. 5 quickdraws for the old pins, gear from 0.5 to 1.5 inches. A 70m gets you to a chossy ledge with easy scrambling if you and belayer are up the slab climber's right and extend your anchors at least a few feet off the tree. Or better yet, belay the 2nd up, and walk off to the west.
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