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Routes in Mt. Lyell
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East Arete via South East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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Lyell Glacier T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine |
| FA: | August 1871, John B. Tilestone |
| Page Views: | 1,949 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Mike McL on Aug 20, 2019 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the easiest way up Mt. Lyell, the highest peak in Yosemite National Park.
Ascend the Lyell Glacier to the notch between Mt. Lyell and Mt. Maclure. From the notch head left up some 3rd class ledges to the summit ridge. Talus hop along the summit ridge to the summit.
The ledges from the glacier go at 3rd class if you look around to find the easiest way. You could probably get into some harder terrain if you wanted.
Ascend the Lyell Glacier to the notch between Mt. Lyell and Mt. Maclure. From the notch head left up some 3rd class ledges to the summit ridge. Talus hop along the summit ridge to the summit.
The ledges from the glacier go at 3rd class if you look around to find the easiest way. You could probably get into some harder terrain if you wanted.
Location
Start in Tuolumne Meadows at the JMT trailhead near the wilderness permit station.
Hike the PCT about 11.5 miles towards Donahue Pass. The first 8.5 miles or so are very flat. After about 8.5 miles you start to climb towards Donahue Pass. After a bit of a climb you'll reach a large meadow and cross a creek at about 11 miles. You'll climb once again from here. At about 11.5 miles the trail descends and crosses an obvious creek before climbing up to Donahue Pass. Leave the trail here and head south towards Mt. Lyell.
Hike up slabs to the south. After a short step you'll start working SW towards the Lyell Glacier. You want to hike to the right of a pretty obvious rounded knob with swirled red and brown marks. From here you'll ascend the Lyell Glacier to the notch between Mt. Lyell and Mt. Maclure.
Hike the PCT about 11.5 miles towards Donahue Pass. The first 8.5 miles or so are very flat. After about 8.5 miles you start to climb towards Donahue Pass. After a bit of a climb you'll reach a large meadow and cross a creek at about 11 miles. You'll climb once again from here. At about 11.5 miles the trail descends and crosses an obvious creek before climbing up to Donahue Pass. Leave the trail here and head south towards Mt. Lyell.
Hike up slabs to the south. After a short step you'll start working SW towards the Lyell Glacier. You want to hike to the right of a pretty obvious rounded knob with swirled red and brown marks. From here you'll ascend the Lyell Glacier to the notch between Mt. Lyell and Mt. Maclure.
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