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Mrs. Stubbs South Face
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Keyboard of the Winds
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Cold Blooded Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Forgotten Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forgotten North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glissando Link-up, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Key of Free T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mrs. Stubbs South Face T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Quien Sabe Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 120 ft (36 m), Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 741 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is among the easier decent routes to Mrs. Stubbs's summit (aka true mapped summit of Keyboard of the Winds). There might be something easier and junkier on the east side.
Note several cracks and dihedrals on the south face. Most of these look fairly moderate. This is the cleanest line immediately below the summit: a right-facing dihedral with a crack.
Follow blockier corner terrain for first half until reaching a hand/fist crack. Stem and jam the corner crack. Belay off summit boulders. There is some webbing up there, but you might need to supplement it.
We rappelled south, angling slightly east so a single 60m would work. We used a single 60m twin and halved it for the lead, requiring the second to simul/ascend 15 feet of 4th/low 5th before the leader could anchor.
Note several cracks and dihedrals on the south face. Most of these look fairly moderate. This is the cleanest line immediately below the summit: a right-facing dihedral with a crack.
Follow blockier corner terrain for first half until reaching a hand/fist crack. Stem and jam the corner crack. Belay off summit boulders. There is some webbing up there, but you might need to supplement it.
We rappelled south, angling slightly east so a single 60m would work. We used a single 60m twin and halved it for the lead, requiring the second to simul/ascend 15 feet of 4th/low 5th before the leader could anchor.
Location
Access (~2-3 hrs for average speed via any route):
-from the Keyhole route by traversing beneath Keyboard of the Winds on the west side from the Trough (scree, scramble).
-from the Keyhole route by descending from near the Homestretch and finding the gully east of the ridge (3rd Class) to descend through a cliffband.
-hiking to Black Lake, up beneath the Spearhead, and following the Pagoda Couloir to the Pagoda/Keyboard saddle. Hook left/north, and pass two mini-points to the base of the route (easiest method, Class 2 with social trail).
-from any route accessing Pagoda/Long's link-ups.
-from the Keyhole route by traversing beneath Keyboard of the Winds on the west side from the Trough (scree, scramble).
-from the Keyhole route by descending from near the Homestretch and finding the gully east of the ridge (3rd Class) to descend through a cliffband.
-hiking to Black Lake, up beneath the Spearhead, and following the Pagoda Couloir to the Pagoda/Keyboard saddle. Hook left/north, and pass two mini-points to the base of the route (easiest method, Class 2 with social trail).
-from any route accessing Pagoda/Long's link-ups.
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