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Routes in Dusy Dome
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Cymbaline T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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It's A Doozy (The Abduction From the Seraglio) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Little Lambs Eat Ivy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Paradisio T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saint of Circumstances T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tongue In Cheek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Stephen McCabe and Dave Daly, Oct 6 2019 |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Daly on Aug 14, 2019 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road closure Oct 1, 2024
Details
PG&E will be closing access to Courtright reservoir early this year. The gate will close Oct 1, 2024 and will remain closed until the spring of 2025
Description
'TONGUE IN CHEEK' (5.9)
Pitch 1 (5.8): Head up the center of the "tongue" on easy 5th class for 40' before reaching a roof-like overlap with a large knob at its lip. Clip the 1st bolt just next to the knob. Mantle the knob and climb up left then back right to reach the 2nd bolt. From here, climb a blunt riser to reach the 3rd and final bolt. Move up and right to a thin incut flake and eventually the 2-bolt ring anchor (115').
Pitch 2 (5.9): From the anchor, move right then up to the 1st bolt. Pass the bolt (5.9) and reach a semi-grass filled crack. Climb the crack for a short ways (small wires and cams) then out left onto the slab. Clip the 2nd bolt and head up 10' (5.9) then back right into the crack. The crack is somewhat dirty but will take hand sized cams from here on. Continue up the crack as the climbing gets easier. Head up to the right edge of a large blocky corner. Locate 2-ring anchors (105'). Rap the route OR head up and right to the pinched overlap above (100'). Easy 5th with a light duty move of 5.7 before exiting off right and up on 4th class. Walk off right.
Pitch 1 (5.8): Head up the center of the "tongue" on easy 5th class for 40' before reaching a roof-like overlap with a large knob at its lip. Clip the 1st bolt just next to the knob. Mantle the knob and climb up left then back right to reach the 2nd bolt. From here, climb a blunt riser to reach the 3rd and final bolt. Move up and right to a thin incut flake and eventually the 2-bolt ring anchor (115').
Pitch 2 (5.9): From the anchor, move right then up to the 1st bolt. Pass the bolt (5.9) and reach a semi-grass filled crack. Climb the crack for a short ways (small wires and cams) then out left onto the slab. Clip the 2nd bolt and head up 10' (5.9) then back right into the crack. The crack is somewhat dirty but will take hand sized cams from here on. Continue up the crack as the climbing gets easier. Head up to the right edge of a large blocky corner. Locate 2-ring anchors (105'). Rap the route OR head up and right to the pinched overlap above (100'). Easy 5th with a light duty move of 5.7 before exiting off right and up on 4th class. Walk off right.
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