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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower One
Satan's Choice
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 52
votes
Routes in Tower One
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(no name?) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brainless Conformants S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Contrapasso S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell Yes! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell's Angel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pandora T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Satan's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Voyage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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sinbad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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What the Hell S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | A Lemieux, A Mollard, 7/2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,684 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Jul 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Overly Hyped Description
Have you ever wondered why this particular chunk of Tower One has been ignored by at least two generations of choss connoisseurs? Is it because it looks like a late-stage game of limestone Jenga? Make Satan's Choice to find out...
Begin by untangling yourself from the grabby patches of scrub oak which guard the base of a broad pillar then scamper up a moderate face past 4 bolts to reach a cruxy bulge. Pick one of three options (so far), dispatch the obstacle, and flop down on top of the pillar, taking note of the 5th bolt a ways to your left (long runner preferred here).
Wander leftward across a low-angled rippled face (something something long runner) aiming for an intimidating stack of black roofs. Throw the mandatory sign of the horns and embark on a long section of steep stemming and delicate pulling on blocky holds, eventually reaching a lower-angled section of sharp fins which guard the anchors.
Feedback on the grade is all over the place so far, from 5.8 (come on Darren, this isn't the Gunks) to 11a. You've been warned.
CAUTION: This is a new route and despite extensive cleaning, loose rock should still be expected (until 2029, give or take a few years). Everything within reach of the bolt line has been tested (banged on) but if you wander too far you may end up in Chosslandia.
Be especially careful on TR with the belayer's side of the rope catching blocks.
Begin by untangling yourself from the grabby patches of scrub oak which guard the base of a broad pillar then scamper up a moderate face past 4 bolts to reach a cruxy bulge. Pick one of three options (so far), dispatch the obstacle, and flop down on top of the pillar, taking note of the 5th bolt a ways to your left (long runner preferred here).
Wander leftward across a low-angled rippled face (something something long runner) aiming for an intimidating stack of black roofs. Throw the mandatory sign of the horns and embark on a long section of steep stemming and delicate pulling on blocky holds, eventually reaching a lower-angled section of sharp fins which guard the anchors.
Feedback on the grade is all over the place so far, from 5.8 (come on Darren, this isn't the Gunks) to 11a. You've been warned.
CAUTION: This is a new route and despite extensive cleaning, loose rock should still be expected (until 2029, give or take a few years). Everything within reach of the bolt line has been tested (banged on) but if you wander too far you may end up in Chosslandia.
Be especially careful on TR with the belayer's side of the rope catching blocks.
Location
The route starts a few feet left of the black rock gully which houses Rezin Scraper. It tackles a broad pillar located right where the approach trail flattens out and starts following the base of the tower.
If you go too far left you'll be climbing Armed and Hammered or, gasp, Cheap Thrills.
If you go too far left you'll be climbing Armed and Hammered or, gasp, Cheap Thrills.
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