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Big Chief Arête

5.11a, Sport, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 13 votes
FA: Dave Hatchett, Jeff McKitterick, 1992
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Big Chief Area > Three Towers Wall

Description

Big Chief Arête climbs the blocky, lichen covered prow that defines the namesake area of the Center Wall, just down trail from The Three Towers. The route is long (15 bolts), passing the Funambulist anchor at a midpoint along the way, but contains multiple rests (some no hands), ultimately finishing just above the anchor to the nearby Head Rush.

A 70m should just make it to the ground with rope stretch. Just.

Sending onsight is a somewhat lengthy affair, wandering up a few trickier than they look from the ground boulder problems, that, while no harder than 10+, are a little inobvious. It is possible to throw in the towel at the Funambulist anchor 8 bolts in, or continue past the crux bulge just beyond the anchors for the full 11a finish. The crux is short, but keep your head together on the comparatively easy slab above as the bolts space out a bit. You've come this far! 

Location

The climb starts in a series of V-shaped grooves as the trail curls down and around the namesake arête and on to the Center Wall proper. A viewing position further up trail, toward the North Pass, obscures the climb's start, but always the viewer to see the climber higher on the route, along with the anchors for Head Rush and Funambulist.

Protection

15 bolts, one of which is the Funambulist anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Charlie low on Big Chief Arête. The crux surmounts the bulge visible at the very top of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Charlie low on Big Chief Arête. The crux surmounts the bulge visible at the very top of the photo.