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> Falls Area Rock
Battle of Seven Oaks
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 10
votes
Routes in Falls Area Rock
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At the 115th Meridian S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wheat Kings S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Minihapa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Back to Batoche S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Battle of Seven Oaks S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keeping it Riel (Since 1885) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Barter |
| Page Views: | 2,597 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Jones on Jul 18, 2019 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
Gear: 6 quickdraws, 4 extendable runners, 60-meter rope
Pitch 1: 5.6 - 48-meters - Head up steep wall past two bolts. Make a 5.6 move onto the upper face of the rock. Clip 4 pitons with bolt-on top of the cliff then step across a small stream (dries up mid-summer most years). Follow compact rock protected with a bolt and a couple of pitons.
Pitch 2: 5.5 - 30-meters - Step out right on the compact rock. Friction your way up past three bolts and a piton.
Pitch 3: 5.5 - 30-meters - Step right into a steep corner. Clip 5 pitons to a protection bolt at the 20-meter mark. From the bolt angle up and right.
Pitch 4: 5.6 - 30-meters - Climb up past three bolts and a piton. You will reach the final station up on the wall. This is the ice climbers standard first pitch clip in location.
Pitch 1: 5.6 - 48-meters - Head up steep wall past two bolts. Make a 5.6 move onto the upper face of the rock. Clip 4 pitons with bolt-on top of the cliff then step across a small stream (dries up mid-summer most years). Follow compact rock protected with a bolt and a couple of pitons.
Pitch 2: 5.5 - 30-meters - Step out right on the compact rock. Friction your way up past three bolts and a piton.
Pitch 3: 5.5 - 30-meters - Step right into a steep corner. Clip 5 pitons to a protection bolt at the 20-meter mark. From the bolt angle up and right.
Pitch 4: 5.6 - 30-meters - Climb up past three bolts and a piton. You will reach the final station up on the wall. This is the ice climbers standard first pitch clip in location.
Location
Head to Cascade mountain just out of Banff. Approach: Once again, I highly recommend starting your day by climbing the popular Minihappi (5.4) route. This climb is a lovely 3.5 pitch climb that will get you above the first tier of rock walls. Alternatively, you can meander first left then back right working your way past the easily avoidable rock cliffs.
Once above Minihappi cross the waterfall, so you are on the south side ( same side as the #1 hi-way and the town of Banff). Walk-up right next to the waterfall. In about 100 meters you will be faced with a considerable buttress — gear up about 15 meters below the first bolt.
Once above Minihappi cross the waterfall, so you are on the south side ( same side as the #1 hi-way and the town of Banff). Walk-up right next to the waterfall. In about 100 meters you will be faced with a considerable buttress — gear up about 15 meters below the first bolt.
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