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Make Arete's Great Again aka (MAGA)
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Shameless Tower
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Child's Play aka Yellowbelly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hands of Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kidnapper Van T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Make Arete's Great Again aka (MAGA) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stimulus Package T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ryan Kempf and Will Flottman |
| Page Views: | 1,544 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Kempf on Jul 17, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
P0. Locate a large flake at the base of the wall, and shoot for that. Climb slabs left of said flake to access a grassy ramp. Follow the ramp up and left until it is possible to step right on a sloping ledge. Here you will find a 2 stopper anchor. You will not be able to see the fixed gear until it's right in front of your face, the crack is slightly offset. Follow the topo. The climbing to here is solo-able if you choose (5.don't fall).
P1. From this point, you have 2 options to the next major ledge system. The line (climbers left) indicates a path that I would call 5.7. The line that heads climbers right through an arching crack that is ~5.10 to the ledge. Once on the ledge, locate a small alcove/right-facing corner. There are 2 stoppers to belay from in that corner (5.7 or 5.10 70m).
P2. Walk climber's left on the ledge until at the end of the system. Climb a left-facing corner and flakes. Stay climber's left when possible aiming for a broken crack system and more left-facing corners. There is no fixed gear on top of this pitch. Build a gear anchor or sling large blocks (5.9 70m).
P3. The final headwall pitch. This starts on the arete. There are 2 bolts before the 1st overlap. You get a few cam placements while climbing through the overlaps/small roofs. Pull out of the roofs on crimps, and make your way back to the arete gaining a bolt. From here, angle up and right clipping the last bolt and entering a thin crack. This crack protects with 0.1 & 0.2 cams in the beginning then opens up to 0.3/yellow Mastercam size. The final crack starts off in 0.5s and opens up to #3s at the top. There are 2 bolts with rap rings on the top (5.11+, 30m).
P1. From this point, you have 2 options to the next major ledge system. The line (climbers left) indicates a path that I would call 5.7. The line that heads climbers right through an arching crack that is ~5.10 to the ledge. Once on the ledge, locate a small alcove/right-facing corner. There are 2 stoppers to belay from in that corner (5.7 or 5.10 70m).
P2. Walk climber's left on the ledge until at the end of the system. Climb a left-facing corner and flakes. Stay climber's left when possible aiming for a broken crack system and more left-facing corners. There is no fixed gear on top of this pitch. Build a gear anchor or sling large blocks (5.9 70m).
P3. The final headwall pitch. This starts on the arete. There are 2 bolts before the 1st overlap. You get a few cam placements while climbing through the overlaps/small roofs. Pull out of the roofs on crimps, and make your way back to the arete gaining a bolt. From here, angle up and right clipping the last bolt and entering a thin crack. This crack protects with 0.1 & 0.2 cams in the beginning then opens up to 0.3/yellow Mastercam size. The final crack starts off in 0.5s and opens up to #3s at the top. There are 2 bolts with rap rings on the top (5.11+, 30m).
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