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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Anniversary Waltz T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brrright Star T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hidden Constellation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raging Raven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rain Dogs TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V1 5 |
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Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Star Sailor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wald-Calder Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Walking the Tightrope S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,180 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Jul 9, 2019 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This route looks horrible from below (like, is there actually a route there?), but it's actually a masterpiece. The meat of the route follows a left-rising fingercrack (under a left-rising roof) with excellent gear, eventually making it's way to the fixed anchor on Coffee Achievers. It's a classic at the famous 9+ grade, which means it feels more like mid 5.10. The poor feet help to increase the pump.
P1 5.8+: Go up the chimney in the left-facing corner to a roof. Traverse right (large cam) to the top of the tower and make a belay among the giant blocks. 40'
P2 5.9+ G: Follow the left-rising fingercrack to where it becomes horizontal. Hand traverse left to a good stance at the end. Use long runners in this next section to avoid rope drag. Move up and right to a crack, then up and left to join the final fistcrack of Coffee Achievers. Fixed anchor. 130'
P1 5.8+: Go up the chimney in the left-facing corner to a roof. Traverse right (large cam) to the top of the tower and make a belay among the giant blocks. 40'
P2 5.9+ G: Follow the left-rising fingercrack to where it becomes horizontal. Hand traverse left to a good stance at the end. Use long runners in this next section to avoid rope drag. Move up and right to a crack, then up and left to join the final fistcrack of Coffee Achievers. Fixed anchor. 130'
Location
First locate Pete's Farewell. From this ledge, you can look right across a drippy waterfall to a broken, left-facing corner/tower with very large blocks perched on top. Boulder up the initial slab of Pete's Farewell, then walk right across an overgrown ledge, then down to the base of the broken, left-facing corner/tower.
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