Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,177 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jul 9, 2019
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route looks horrible from below (like, is there actually a route there?), but it's actually a masterpiece. The meat of the route follows a left-rising fingercrack (under a left-rising roof) with excellent gear, eventually making it's way to the fixed anchor on Coffee Achievers. It's a classic at the famous 9+ grade, which means it feels more like mid 5.10. The poor feet help to increase the pump.

P1 5.8+: Go up the chimney in the left-facing corner to a roof. Traverse right (large cam) to the top of the tower and make a belay among the giant blocks. 40'

P2 5.9+ G: Follow the left-rising fingercrack to where it becomes horizontal. Hand traverse left to a good stance at the end. Use long runners in this next section to avoid rope drag. Move up and right to a crack, then up and left to join the final fistcrack of Coffee Achievers. Fixed anchor. 130'

Location Suggest change

First locate Pete's Farewell. From this ledge, you can look right across a drippy waterfall to a broken, left-facing corner/tower with very large blocks perched on top. Boulder up the initial slab of Pete's Farewell, then walk right across an overgrown ledge, then down to the base of the broken, left-facing corner/tower.

Protection Suggest change

Full rack to 4".

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