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Routes in Slhanay
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, Aid, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Andre Ike, Jim Martinello, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 903 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | John Gassel on Jun 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A great way to finish The Great Game and top out the wall. This pitch starts from the top of that climb (see location info).
From the belay on the low angled slab, work left on easy ground clipping 2 bolts. From here, head up the arête through some thoughtful 5.10 slab moves.
The next three bolts are A0 through the overhang. Not too reachy. Once you surmount the overhang on aid you’re quickly into the crux of the pitch. Resist the urge to keep aiding and pull through the awkward, balancy mantle. Easier ground and one more bolt await you on the upper slab.
This climb has new bolts and it should be possible to pull through most of the hard moves, so get on it!
Walk off or rappel down the face with double ropes. The first rap anchor is in a chimney climber’s left of the top out and is fairly obvious.
From the belay on the low angled slab, work left on easy ground clipping 2 bolts. From here, head up the arête through some thoughtful 5.10 slab moves.
The next three bolts are A0 through the overhang. Not too reachy. Once you surmount the overhang on aid you’re quickly into the crux of the pitch. Resist the urge to keep aiding and pull through the awkward, balancy mantle. Easier ground and one more bolt await you on the upper slab.
This climb has new bolts and it should be possible to pull through most of the hard moves, so get on it!
Walk off or rappel down the face with double ropes. The first rap anchor is in a chimney climber’s left of the top out and is fairly obvious.
Location
This route starts after the 4th and final pitch of The Great Game. If you make it all the way to the final anchor of that route, look left and you’ll see an anchor on the low angle slab 10 meters to your left. It’s best to belay from those bolts for Skyline Arête, so go ahead and run out the last few easy meters of The Great Game and head left to that anchor in the first place.
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