PRINT: Rock Climb Iron Maiden, aka Double Exposure, Southwest Oregon

Iron Maiden, aka Double Exposure

5.10b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 2002.
Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Callahans > Iron Maiden

Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED Details

WALK-IN PERMITS
Permit sales start June 23rd at 7pm
$100 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
recreation.weyerhaeuser.com…
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.

Description

Climb the lower slab straight up to the first clip (5.8) and then follow the bolt line slightly right next two clips are crux moves (10.a/b). As you come to a shoulder to your right route veers left into a steep depression (5.10a) and straight up to the summit block with chains. Three easier routes on the uphill side can provide 5.7-5.9 access for toproping. To do so once on top contour left around summit block where you will find the chain anchors for Iron Maiden.

Location

From the bottom of Turtle Rock take the Baseline trail north past the Ape Rock sign. Iron Maiden will be the second pinnacle from Ape Rock. The trail also makes the first switch back down hill at Iron Maiden.

Protection

Fixe double expansion

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Iron Maiden seen coming from Turtle Rock, starting below the obvious soccer ball sized hueco to the left of the crack. Line meanders up and then left, and finishing on a short slab above the notch…