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Routes in The Hourglass
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Beginning of Time, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Cory Hanson |
| Page Views: | 1,051 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | cory hanson on May 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
You won’t have enough time for everything so make time for the things that matter.
Time ascends the grey hourglass shaped slab that is the namesake of this section of the cliff and the largest contiguous feature in the whole of the Farmhouse. Begin on the ledge below the slab (accessed by climbing The Beginning of Time). Then crawl your way up delicate and demanding intro climbing to a no-hands rest in the notch of the hourglass. Climb and up and right from the notch to gain a series of amazing features leading straight up the middle of the slab. A short and challenging traverse left awaits those who pull through the last crux. This traverse puts you onto slightly lower angle terrain with four somewhat spacey bolts that lead to the top of the wall.
The belayer can run a long tether up to the first draw and out left to the anchors for ‘The Beginning of Time’ in order to belay from a standing stance with the ability to provide a dynamic catch. There will be improvements to the belay ledge in the future.
Time ascends the grey hourglass shaped slab that is the namesake of this section of the cliff and the largest contiguous feature in the whole of the Farmhouse. Begin on the ledge below the slab (accessed by climbing The Beginning of Time). Then crawl your way up delicate and demanding intro climbing to a no-hands rest in the notch of the hourglass. Climb and up and right from the notch to gain a series of amazing features leading straight up the middle of the slab. A short and challenging traverse left awaits those who pull through the last crux. This traverse puts you onto slightly lower angle terrain with four somewhat spacey bolts that lead to the top of the wall.
The belayer can run a long tether up to the first draw and out left to the anchors for ‘The Beginning of Time’ in order to belay from a standing stance with the ability to provide a dynamic catch. There will be improvements to the belay ledge in the future.
Location
Access the pitch by climbing ‘The Beginning of Time’ to gain the ledge at the base of the hourglass shaped slab.
Protection
20ish? Bolts to anchors. A 70m rope will NOT make it from the first belay ledge to the top and back down. You can climb the route with a 70m rope but when you are lowering you will have to stop at the anchors in the notch of the hourglass to untie and pull the rope. You can also break the pitch up into two separate pitches using these anchors. It wouldn't really change the grade of the route much since this spot is a no hands rest on the climb anyway but the ascent would certainly be less epic and belaying from the notch is very annoying.
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