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Overpopulation

5.10, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 17 votes
FA: who knows? First lead with current hardware by Matt Twyman, May 2019
Colorado > Ft Collins > Lory SP > Arthur's Rock > Overlook (Arthur's Rock)
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Description

The route starts with casual friction climbing on a moderate angled slab and follows solid stone up to a dark water stained runnel. A beefy old piton is found in the runnel. Pulling through it takes you to a ledge. The natural line of continuous difficulty pushes you out left a bit, bypassing the 2nd runnel, and then up and back right on solid features over a bulge and to the summit ramp. All in all, it is a consistently fun route on quality stone.

Note, charging through the 2nd runnel goes at ~11+. It offers an incredibly technical balance sequence. If redpointing, you’ll also need to pull the crux sequence to gain the next bolt. A longish draw can be clipped from below on pinkpoint.

All the bolts were funded and provided by The NCCC. If you would like to make a donation for future projects, visit the website here: nococlimbing.org/.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks-2/.

Location

It is ~40’ right of Overview Effect and ~20’ right of a standing pine tree. Start on a right-facing ramp below the upper, dark, water runnel.

Protection

10 bolts + 2 chain anchors. A 60m rope will just reach.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view from base of wall. The darker, deeper runnel system to the right is also very fun and may be toproped from the Overpopulation anchors.
[Hide Photo] A view from base of wall. The darker, deeper runnel system to the right is also very fun and may be toproped from the Overpopulation anchors.
Chad about to climb beyond belayer's view after the roof crux.
[Hide Photo] Chad about to climb beyond belayer's view after the roof crux.
View from approach trail.
[Hide Photo] View from approach trail.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The anchor should be about 20 ft lower. Where it is just creates a lot of drag without adding any good climbing. May 26, 2019
J Cook
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] A really enjoyable long slab/face climb. I agree with Ken...the anchors should be ~20 ft lower. Surprisingly, this seemed to be one of the cleaner routes at the Overlook. Hopefully the other routes will clean up over time, as there is a lot of lichen and crumbly flaky rock. Overall, the climbing is fun here. May 30, 2019
AJ Cohen
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I enjoyed all of the climbing until the roof crux.... I found the roof heady with uninspiring and unnatural moves. I'd give this route 3 stars if it just ended either right before or right after the roof. May 31, 2019
Nathan Sullivan
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The runout to the anchors was odd, and I broke off a little pebble I was pinching down low, but it was fun. I enjoyed the roof, I was expecting to need to power moves, but it's actually fun and unusual technique that will get you over. Jun 1, 2019
Parneli Jo
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The bolt at the crux is poorly placed if the route intends to go left. Going straight up (but still left of the runnel) would be less worrisome if the bolt was 12 inches lower. May 16, 2021
Paul Thayer
Ft. Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This route challenged me at the crux for sure! My right foot *may* have temporarily found a shiny, metal foothold for just a moment while I clipped the last bolt. :) , but I'll return later this summer to do the route cleanly. Definitely a fun route. Jul 31, 2021
Mike Myers
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Bolting for this route was a bit goofy and contrived if the beta is to head left towards the undercling flake. Taking a fall if you are going left would lead to a nasty swing with cheese grater rock. The anchors should be right at the top of the bulge, but like many of the anchor placements at Lory, they are 20 feet past the end of the climbing, creating terrible drag. May 18, 2024