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Routes in The Overlook (Arthur's Rock)
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'Old School Route' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dog S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Pinch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Giggle Maker, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Green Sky S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lagunita S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mossy Moe S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Overpopulation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overview Effect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | who knows? First lead with current hardware by Matt Twyman, May 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,362 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Twyman on May 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Description
The route starts with casual friction climbing on a moderate angled slab and follows solid stone up to a dark water stained runnel. A beefy old piton is found in the runnel. Pulling through it takes you to a ledge. The natural line of continuous difficulty pushes you out left a bit, bypassing the 2nd runnel, and then up and back right on solid features over a bulge and to the summit ramp. All in all, it is a consistently fun route on quality stone.
Note, charging through the 2nd runnel goes at ~11+. It offers an incredibly technical balance sequence. If redpointing, you’ll also need to pull the crux sequence to gain the next bolt. A longish draw can be clipped from below on pinkpoint.
All the bolts were funded and provided by The NCCC. If you would like to make a donation for future projects, visit the website here: nococlimbing.org/.
Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks-2/.
Note, charging through the 2nd runnel goes at ~11+. It offers an incredibly technical balance sequence. If redpointing, you’ll also need to pull the crux sequence to gain the next bolt. A longish draw can be clipped from below on pinkpoint.
All the bolts were funded and provided by The NCCC. If you would like to make a donation for future projects, visit the website here: nococlimbing.org/.
Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks-2/.
Location
It is ~40’ right of Overview Effect and ~20’ right of a standing pine tree. Start on a right-facing ramp below the upper, dark, water runnel.
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