Alternate Erikson Start (Roof Wall)
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | J. Erikson, 1973 |
Page Views: | 923 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on May 7, 2019 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route has good and interesting climbing with a little poor rock down low. No less, it is pretty good climbing and certainly will not have anyone on it. This is the route for shorter climbers to suggest to taller partners for grins and giggles. Tall climbers, beware, and get ready to kiss your kneecaps!
The route starts up some "blah" rock on easy moves in a corner then reaches solid stone under a left-leaning roof with a hand and fist crack. Scrunch up under that roof, and head left for a body length or so, teetering on thin feet and reaching around the corner to move up past the lip and onto a ledge with a tree and fixed anchor.
The route starts up some "blah" rock on easy moves in a corner then reaches solid stone under a left-leaning roof with a hand and fist crack. Scrunch up under that roof, and head left for a body length or so, teetering on thin feet and reaching around the corner to move up past the lip and onto a ledge with a tree and fixed anchor.
Location
This climb is located high up Redgarden on the Hot Spur. Approach as for Sunstar, passing The Grand Course and Disappearing Act, then continue just past the obvious chimney of Sunstar, as if heading to Northumberland Crack or The Hot Spur.
Between these routes lies The Roof Wall, which starts to the right of a left-rising ramp below a reasonably-sized slab of good rock. To the right of this left-rising slab, a shallow, right-rising trough ascends up and right 30' to a dirty corner below a ledge with a large pine tree above.
Under this ledge, an obvious jagged hand-to-fist crack cuts its way under the roof out and left, presenting some surprisingly fun and engaging climbing to reach the ledge. This is the climb.
One can continue up on The Roof Wall for 3 more pitches to the top of the wall or stop here, retreat from the fixed anchor, and head up something else.
Between these routes lies The Roof Wall, which starts to the right of a left-rising ramp below a reasonably-sized slab of good rock. To the right of this left-rising slab, a shallow, right-rising trough ascends up and right 30' to a dirty corner below a ledge with a large pine tree above.
Under this ledge, an obvious jagged hand-to-fist crack cuts its way under the roof out and left, presenting some surprisingly fun and engaging climbing to reach the ledge. This is the climb.
One can continue up on The Roof Wall for 3 more pitches to the top of the wall or stop here, retreat from the fixed anchor, and head up something else.
1 Comment