Release the Hostages

This mondo line is sort of like two routes for the price of one: a long, cruxy, technical slab to a monster, looming overhang way off the deck, suspended high over the mouth of Bear Canyon.

Begin on the ledge just right of Tits Out... at a belay bolt, and stick clip a high first bolt. Crimp your way upwards from here on nearly perfect black and green rock, passing multiple cruxes, including a few seemingly holdless sections that require careful deciphering. Past the final bolt on the slab, bolt 7, you can place a Metolius orange TCU out left in the flake, though we skipped it.

Move up to a rest, then head out the roof. Good jugs, some a bit hollow (we cleaned the route thoroughly; still, use your discretion), get you halfway out the overhang, then it's crux time. Big power moves segue into a pumpy exit to the lip then a short, crimpy face above to the anchors below the upper tongue of rock. The name of the game up here is wild moves and wild exposure--amazing position. Long slings are helpful for drag on the first three bolts on the steepness.

This is a 33-meter pitch that starts and ends on a ledge 50 feet off the ground. A 70-meter rope is mandatory, and knot your rope ends to prevent a lowering accident!

Not totally sure on the grade. Each section alone felt like 5.12d/13a, but there is a rest between them. But there's also lots and lots of difficult climbing. You be the judge....felt harder than the other 5.13a's on the wall.

Many thanks to OSMP and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!

Begin just right of Tits Out... on the same ledge. It is the second route from the left.

14 bolts plus an optional TCU. A 70-meter rope is MANDATORY.