Domzalski

Thé classic route up Stup, its slabby pitches feature prominently in many photographs of Paklenica. It features sweet flakes, interesting grooves, and some very slabby slab. It has an easy approach and descent.

P1. 25m. "4b". As the Hungarians at the base said: "A 4 in Paklenica can be anything between a 5 and a 6". Start up the slab at the nameplate to the high bolt on the left. Follow the sparse bolts into a groove, and then left out of a crack system to a pretty comfortable belay.

P2. 30m. 6a+. The crux pitch. Climb some nice flakes up for about 5m, then right onto some delicate slab, search for non-existing holds for a couple bolts, then onto a series of flakes up to the belay.

P3. 35m. 5c. A gorgeous pitch. Starts by climbing up a couple juggy flakes, then into a series of progressively more vertical grooves, where you have to meander right & left to find the good hidden holds to move up. At the top of the vertical, one bolt is towards the right, but actually easier climbing over the left will get you there. Afterwards, you're onto easier (runout) ground again.

P4. 30m. 6a. Move right from the belay (or is it, move up?? There are many lines across this face), into some slabby grooves once again. Smear and balance yourself up to some better flakes and onto the top of the rock. There are many rappel bolts visible, though you can move past them higher up, where supposedly there is another way to get down.

Rappel:
Two rappels down to the ground (70m comfortable, 60m 'tight'), scramble down a series of blocks, and then back around to the base.

To find it, follow the sign across the river to Anica Cuk, then to Stup, then go right around the base of the apron and up to a little alcove with a tree.  There is a nameplate for this climb, so you can't get too lost!

Sparse bolts all the way up, bring a small rack (approx .3-1) if you like some more protection in between. Bolted anchors.