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Routes in Mormon Canyon
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Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2 |
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Devil Isn’t Red, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Directions from a Moroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drinking Kool-Aid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Faith In The Stone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Full Contact Origami T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Holy Sin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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John Burcham Spire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kicked out of Heaven T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nameless Tower - Jacob's Ladder, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Spirit Compass T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Top Shelf Spire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and John Burcham 4/7/19 |
| Page Views: | 955 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Apr 19, 2019 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Top Shelf Spire is perched on the steep ridgeline a couple of hundred feet above (north of) Nameless Tower. It probably escaped notice until recently as it is discreetly camoflauged from most angles; it blends into the cliff behind it and can only be discerned from certain vantages. While it is rather fin-shaped, the end-on profile is quite shapely. More importantly, the rock is of the highest caliber "top shelf" Schnebly and finishes in the Coconino. While it features the typical burly Mormon Canyon approach (shrubbery involved), it is a worthwhile tick for Sedona summit-baggers. The views of the upper reaches of Mormon Canyon and the myriad towers and proud Coco walls are stellar!
From a cleared out platform, ramble up some easy, but unprotected face to the flake/crack on the west edge of the north face and follow this for a ways. When the system begins to degenerate, clip a bolt on the face and execute a tiptoe traverse right to a cool mini-stance on the sharply defined west arete of the spire. Continue up the thin crack on this arete to the top, finishing up on some very featured, black Coconino horns. There is no real crux, but it is pretty sustained and engaging climbing throughout. We cleared the few obvious blocks off the route, but there is a bit of lichen on the lower crack to contend with. However, this was generally a very clean backcountry outing that should appeal to those versed in off-the-beaten-path Sedona terrain.
From a cleared out platform, ramble up some easy, but unprotected face to the flake/crack on the west edge of the north face and follow this for a ways. When the system begins to degenerate, clip a bolt on the face and execute a tiptoe traverse right to a cool mini-stance on the sharply defined west arete of the spire. Continue up the thin crack on this arete to the top, finishing up on some very featured, black Coconino horns. There is no real crux, but it is pretty sustained and engaging climbing throughout. We cleared the few obvious blocks off the route, but there is a bit of lichen on the lower crack to contend with. However, this was generally a very clean backcountry outing that should appeal to those versed in off-the-beaten-path Sedona terrain.
Location
Hike the Mormon Canyon wash until the major bend right (east) into the upper reaches of the canyon. Look up and locate the prominent Nameless Tower (large Schnebly spire sitting directly north of the bend in the canyon). Continue straight up the subsidary wash that continues north, instead of following the main canyon wash east as you would for Earth Angel and all other upper canyon routes. This wash leads below and left (west) of Nameless Tower on the ridgeline above.
Continue until just past Nameless Tower, and look for a side drainage on the right (east) that leads up to the steep hillside above. We marked this turn with some cairns. Follow this narrower wash for a bit, and then route find up the steep hillside, trying to stick to the spots of open ridge or slab to minimize bushwhacking. You are aiming for the notch between Top Shelf Spire and the wall behind it. Total time from the car is approx. 1 hr.
Continue until just past Nameless Tower, and look for a side drainage on the right (east) that leads up to the steep hillside above. We marked this turn with some cairns. Follow this narrower wash for a bit, and then route find up the steep hillside, trying to stick to the spots of open ridge or slab to minimize bushwhacking. You are aiming for the notch between Top Shelf Spire and the wall behind it. Total time from the car is approx. 1 hr.
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