PRINT: Rock Climb Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time), Eldorado Canyon State Park

Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time)

5.14, Sport, 130 ft (39 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: prep: Chris Hill, 1980s. FFA: Mike Anderson, Mark Anderson
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This route was first bolted by Chris Hill in the 1980s and was attempted by a few of the local legends. It didn't have an anchor and was approached as a second pitch to Darkness Till Dawn. A flaky,unprotected traverse brought you to the start of the climb.

Over the years, it has seen some interest from well known climbers, but because of the bolting ban, it sat untouched.

This climb now has a two bolt anchor and a direct start. You can climb this route from the ground in one monster, mouth watering, 40 meter pitch! Mega!

It's 14 bolts, but you might want to hang a 6 and 7 foot sling from two of the bolts down low. Don't expect any respect from Christian if you do. If you can climb 5.14, you should be able to climb 12d/13a R. You should also untie and solo off when you get to the anchor.

All of the bolts up high were once ring bolts but have since been replaced with fat glue-ins.

This is probably the hardest line in the park.

Location

In the Darkness Till Dawn alcove, this is obvious.

Protection

14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It is 40 meters. Knot your ends!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Heinously hard topout boulder problem.

11c into 12d into 13a into V-hard.

Better climbers than me with the TR setup working the line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joseph Crotty
Carbondale, CO

Many thanks to Matt Reeser who put forth much work and effort into upgrading the hardware that made the FFA possible. Matt upgraded all the original crap ring bolts, moved a few thing to make them saner to clip, and added a proper two bolt anchor. Countless trips, ACE application, talking it up publicly with friends and other like minded crushers and posting it online, etc.

Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you!

Matt's joy for climbing and selfless sacrifice are a fresh look. May 30, 2019

Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Colorado

Good writeup by Mark: blog.trango.com/slice-of-ti…. Nov 17, 2019

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

Good editorial here re: old school bolting. It's almost like climbers back in the day were looking for excuses to fail. Anyway, routes that require the climb-another-route-to-set-up-the-TR-to-put-the-long-slings-in-to dial-the-runout shenanigans could stand to be re-engineered. Just my opinion, haha. Sep 14, 2020