Type: Trad, Alpine, 5000 ft (1515 m), Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,028 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tom Jones on Apr 17, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

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Description Suggest change

2500m elevation gain over 24km covering the 11 peaks of Rundle. Big traverse with a wide variety of scrambling or climbing options but should be taken seriously as there are several down climbs, knife-edge ridge walks, and 5th class climbs. We followed the Dow Williams’ original post and tried to stay as ridge-proper as possible which involved more climbing bumping up the grade to about 5.7. There are many points along the traverse (peak 7 ascent, peak 10 descent, peak 11 ascent) where you can take different route options based on comfort level. We opted for direct lines with more climbing starting at EEOR and ending at WEOR, although it can be done in the opposite direction. We brought a 60m alpine rope which managed all raps, 5 or so cams from small to #2, a small selection of nuts,  approach shoes, and some static 6mm for raps just in case. A strong party should complete this in about 12hrs.

Start at EEOR and gain the first peak. The trail from peaks 1-6 is easy to follow and involves minimal (but exposed) ridge walks and a short  scramble. Peak 6 has a few down climbs which are exposed but safe if you’re experienced. From start to peak 6 can be done in about 3 hours if you’re fit.

There are several lines up peak 7. We tried to stay as close to the ridge as possible (approx route in picture). The route finding is relatively easy as are the scrambles up short cliff bands. We climbed through several short chimneys on our way to meet back up with the ridge. We generally stayed to the left of the big spine on the right of peak 7, finding the path of least resistance (of which there are many). Once you’ve regained the ridge near the top, an easy ridge walk gains the peak and the descent trail becomes obvious. The descent off 7 involves an easy down climb in a chimney, then stay right to find a rap off a slung block a few minutes later, with peak 8 in the distance.

Continue traversing along on a faint trail to peak 8, staying left of a short cliff band before cutting up right to a very exposed notch (3m). Once on top, head slightly left and then cut back right along the ridge, downclimbing a short section before continuing along the ridge to another rap on a bolt and piton.

Continue along the ridge, cutting left to avoid the cliffs ahead, hitting peak 9 and towards 10. On the way to peak 10, there is a short mid 5th class chimney which is easily reached by scrambling and hiking. Once topped out, the peak is gained and the descent starts. There are a few ways down but we opted for weaving a bit left and down which brought us to a slung block rap (pic looking back to peak 10) through a chossy gully which is not downclimbable. Continue along the ridge until you come to a freehanging rap through an amazing vertical chimney (full 30m - knot the ends of your rope, or there is also a midway rap anchor). Continue descending on a straight forward trail which then becomes less obvious. You can drop slightly left towards a lower notch which leads into a steep rain gulley losing lots of elevation, or stay high and find a way onto the ridge (pic looking back to peak 10 showing route options).

Continue along to peak 11 choosing the line of least resistance but be mindful of route finding here - it’s very easy to get yourself into a tight spot and having to backtrack. Ascend across several short cliff bands, scree slopes, and slabs, continually trending up and near ridge proper. You'll encounter 2-3 short head walls (~15m) which are mid 5th class climbing (~5.7 depending on the line chosen). The final push to the peak is an easy ridge walk. Descend via the WEOR trail.

(Tim Wood and Ian Jones, 2022)

Location Suggest change

Generally people either start with the obvious EEOR trail or the WEOR trail. From there, using a combination of good navigational skills, technical climbing and decision making, and beta is key to success.

Protection Suggest change

Axe or Poles, small alpine rack, bivy gear, short rope, approach shoes and/or rock shoes.

Photos

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