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> N America
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> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Norte (N Face)
King Kong
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 19
votes
Routes in Cara Norte (North Face)
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El Día del Cactus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Puerco Bicicletero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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King Kong S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Godzilla S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 720 ft (218 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Luis 'Mac' Carlos García, Bernardo Ezeta, Mathias Ape |
| Page Views: | 1,980 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Paluck on Apr 14, 2019 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Very fun multipitch. The description below is for the first four pitches only: many climbers forgo the final four pitches because of the suposedly meandering, not-worth-it rappel down. Plus, the fourth pitch, up an eroded water channel with radical, spiky features on each side, is truly the star and reason for doing King Kong.
Here are the grades as given in the local guidebooks. Most would agree they are very soft:
5.10c, 10b, 10b, 10c, 5.7, 10b, 10a, 4th class.
Here is my take on the first four pitches, using grades consistent with central Mexican sport climbing areas:
1st pitch: 5.10a. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon.
2nd: 5.10a. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches. Watch for the big nopal cactus on your left when rapping down!
3rd: 5.8. Relaxed, highly featured climbing.
4th. 5.10a. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress. Anyone who has completed this, please add your observations!
You will rap down the route. Apparently some people have rapped down the first four pitches with 60 m rope. Local guideboks say 70 m is required, so better safe than sorry. I have always used 70m.
Here are the grades as given in the local guidebooks. Most would agree they are very soft:
5.10c, 10b, 10b, 10c, 5.7, 10b, 10a, 4th class.
Here is my take on the first four pitches, using grades consistent with central Mexican sport climbing areas:
1st pitch: 5.10a. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon.
2nd: 5.10a. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches. Watch for the big nopal cactus on your left when rapping down!
3rd: 5.8. Relaxed, highly featured climbing.
4th. 5.10a. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress. Anyone who has completed this, please add your observations!
You will rap down the route. Apparently some people have rapped down the first four pitches with 60 m rope. Local guideboks say 70 m is required, so better safe than sorry. I have always used 70m.
Location
From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rouck right below three close bolts.
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