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Enigma

5.10d, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
FA: Mark Spencer in 1992
California > Sequoia & Kings… > Moro Rock (SEKI) > W Face
Warning Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Awesome and safe (enigma) pitch off the right side of Patio Ledge. The best way to top out Levity's End, Whistler, West Face Direct, etc. Also just great as a stand-alone pitch that is easy to access.

Head up the sweet finger sized corner and then start clipping bolts. Bust out right onto steep knobs. Once at a ledge, a few more bolts on easier terrain take you to a 2 bolt anchor. From there, low angled rock will take you to the top, right near the summit railing where you have to build an anchor, or use the railing. 

Location

Far right side of Patio ledge (the gigantic ledge 150 feet below the summit). Start in the furthest right corner. The top out is 20 ft. South of the summit railing. I think you could build an anchor, rap to the bolted anchor, then to the Patio with one rope if you just wanted to do this. Or, rap Pennies (or anywhere on the railing) with 2 ropes and walk to the right. Or, climb something on the West Face that leads to the Patio. 

Protection

a few finger sized pieces then all bolts (9 of them). bolts are original but are 3/8" and are doing ~ok

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The top of the climb is a nice slab
[Hide Photo] The top of the climb is a nice slab
Ben Kiessel nears the top of Enigma.
[Hide Photo] Ben Kiessel nears the top of Enigma.
Trevor sussing out the bolt situation. The route starts in that finger crack to his right.
[Hide Photo] Trevor sussing out the bolt situation. The route starts in that finger crack to his right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wesley Neill
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This is a stellar climb in a stellar setting. The short finger crack sucks up gear and is easy climbing on face holds. where the crack ends, an excellent and safely bolted sport route begins. A little pumpy if you've only been climbing slab.

Bolts are showing rusty heads, but seemed to my untrained eye to be trustworthy enough to whip on (I did at the crux twice). Jun 7, 2019
tallmark515
 
[Hide Comment] Some fun movement on big knobs and cool features. Only a few small pieces of gear needed for lower section, before first bolt. To access the route from above, either sling the climber's-right side of railing or build an anchor in the horizontal below. Rap down and keep an eye out right for the rusty but good (looking) anchor, then rap from the anchor to the ledge. A 70m rope will just make it to the ledge from the anchor (two total raps). Alternatively, a second full length 70m rappel from the railing or anchor at the top is likely possible. Aug 29, 2019