Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: C. Richardson 1997
Page Views: 518 total · 7/month
Shared By: Francois Cote on Apr 5, 2019
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: Climb the short buttress starting down and right from the obvious black face of Painted Black directly underneath the first bolt. You can stick clip the first bolt or make 5.6 moves up the face to get it clipped. Mantle the block then continue up through a corner system clipping two more bolts. From here you can either move slightly left following a line that will eventually lead to the Never Ending Story anchor or follow the shallow corner slightly right up a newer line that will take you to an independant bolted anchor. 

P2: From the spacious belay ledge move up through crack systems leftward toward a good sized spruce tree on the left side of a face. Continue up through this easy but fun crack system to a ledge and bolted belay at the top of the Gallery Wall slabs. 

This is an excellent two pitch route and makes for a very straight forward and pleasant way to access climbs in The Alley. 

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts on pitch 1. Bolted anchors. Standard rack to 3" piece. A number 4 could be useful but not absolutely necessary.  Rap the route. 

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