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Fessura degli schiavi della pietra
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
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Routes in Parete Delle Ombre
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Fessura degli schiavi della pietra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spigolo Grundal (P1) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Guido Azzalea, Gabriele Beuchod, Robert Bonelli, summer 1980 |
| Page Views: | 649 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Kaye on Apr 1, 2019 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
Follows a broken medium/wide crack up and tops out with a nice view of Noasco and the mountains beyond. We thought the guidebook route lengths were a bit long, as noted below.
p1 25m (probably closer to 20m), 5c - Start up a shallow corner with a finger/layback crack and a pin about 2 meters up. Crux is probably this first part. After about 10 meters this tops out and over an arete to a stance, where you proceed up either a large crack or dive into the dihedral/slab to another pin about halfway up this section (and a bit tricky here!) Continue up to a pair of birth trees on a ledge, with a pair of bolts just past them.
p2 40m (probably closer to 35m), 4c(+) - Move up the corner and right dancing around some boulders and large flakes, until you get established on the slab with a wide crack. Follow the crack up to a nice ledge with 3 bolts and 4 rusty pins. If you don't like off-widths, or don't have a few (I'd recommend 4 - 5) large pieces (#4 and up) you may have to do some running out on this pitch - hopefully you enjoy 'almost' offwidth kinda stuff, luckly it's not steep.
p3 30m (probably closer to 25m), 4b - traverse a mew meters left along a ledge into the crack system, and follow the broken crack system up (which involves some zig-zagging) and watch for loose holds in the cracks. Near the top, traverse right to a coniferous larch tree and you'll find bolts just to the right on a ledge.
p4 35m (probably closer to 30), 4b - move up and right from the below, doing a little bouldering or stemming, then follow the crack system up and left. again, watch for loose holds in the crack. About halfway up the angle lessens, continue up the obvious corner crack to 2 bolts connected by an old rope atop a small dihedral. Top out and belay from a big larch tree with some old cords around it.
Decent:
We rapped in 2 raps with 2 70m ropes. Another website says you could do it with two 60m ropes. I believe we could have done it with one 70m and four raps, but it might have been close getting down to the p1 anchor. We ad at least 10m of rope remaining for both of our rappels. Careful not to get your rope stuck in trees or the big flaring crack.
p1 25m (probably closer to 20m), 5c - Start up a shallow corner with a finger/layback crack and a pin about 2 meters up. Crux is probably this first part. After about 10 meters this tops out and over an arete to a stance, where you proceed up either a large crack or dive into the dihedral/slab to another pin about halfway up this section (and a bit tricky here!) Continue up to a pair of birth trees on a ledge, with a pair of bolts just past them.
p2 40m (probably closer to 35m), 4c(+) - Move up the corner and right dancing around some boulders and large flakes, until you get established on the slab with a wide crack. Follow the crack up to a nice ledge with 3 bolts and 4 rusty pins. If you don't like off-widths, or don't have a few (I'd recommend 4 - 5) large pieces (#4 and up) you may have to do some running out on this pitch - hopefully you enjoy 'almost' offwidth kinda stuff, luckly it's not steep.
p3 30m (probably closer to 25m), 4b - traverse a mew meters left along a ledge into the crack system, and follow the broken crack system up (which involves some zig-zagging) and watch for loose holds in the cracks. Near the top, traverse right to a coniferous larch tree and you'll find bolts just to the right on a ledge.
p4 35m (probably closer to 30), 4b - move up and right from the below, doing a little bouldering or stemming, then follow the crack system up and left. again, watch for loose holds in the crack. About halfway up the angle lessens, continue up the obvious corner crack to 2 bolts connected by an old rope atop a small dihedral. Top out and belay from a big larch tree with some old cords around it.
Decent:
We rapped in 2 raps with 2 70m ropes. Another website says you could do it with two 60m ropes. I believe we could have done it with one 70m and four raps, but it might have been close getting down to the p1 anchor. We ad at least 10m of rope remaining for both of our rappels. Careful not to get your rope stuck in trees or the big flaring crack.
Location
There's a pin about 2m up the starting shallow dihedral. About 7m to the right, up a black-ish looking bulge, are a line of shiny silver bolts (I think it's a bolted 6b/c for the first pitch). From far away, it's a pretty obvious big flake-crack that cuts the slightly right-facing slaby face (pitches 2-4 at least). The guidebook photo helped.
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