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California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Mothership Cliff
Holey Mackerel
5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Mothership Cliff
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Excelsior S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sea Monkey S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steelhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Holey Mackerel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Piranha S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Barracuda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Catch and Release S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bird of Prey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Holey Wars S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Holey Guacamoley S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Living Dead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Northern Pike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fight Club S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blood Sport S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Space Debris S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You call that a come on? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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More Hypocrisy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Call it a Comeback S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Peter Croft |
| Page Views: | 2,513 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Louis Mullerleile on Mar 25, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance
Details
Please avoid climbing routes between 'Steelhead' and 'Living Dead' due to active raptor nest in this location. April-July or until nest activity is complete.
Description
Amazing line that climbs past the crux of Piranha and leftward.
The climb can most notably be broken into two bouldery cruxes, with some sporadic pumpy cruxes in between: the first crux is located directly after the Piranha crux through some really interesting, powerful, and finally delicate moves, the second crux is up high just over the roof which leads you to a jug hueco and "easier" climbing to the anchor. Overall an amazing, varied line, that is totally deserving of your effort! Rock is real good and getting better the more people get on it.
I recommend extending certain bolts and skipping a few for rope drag purposes. I specifically skipped the first bolt and extended every bolt on Piranha.
70M gets you to the ground.
The climb can most notably be broken into two bouldery cruxes, with some sporadic pumpy cruxes in between: the first crux is located directly after the Piranha crux through some really interesting, powerful, and finally delicate moves, the second crux is up high just over the roof which leads you to a jug hueco and "easier" climbing to the anchor. Overall an amazing, varied line, that is totally deserving of your effort! Rock is real good and getting better the more people get on it.
I recommend extending certain bolts and skipping a few for rope drag purposes. I specifically skipped the first bolt and extended every bolt on Piranha.
70M gets you to the ground.
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