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Merricka
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | PREP & FA: V. Mayoraz 2018 |
Page Views: | 771 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Konstantin Stoletov on Mar 25, 2019 · Updates |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
Sustained route on good crimps with a unique flake section. A must-do. If you are not comfortable in that grade you might want to stick clip the first bolt. Named after Merrick Montemurro.
Unless the creek is low to non-existent, start as for "Janus" from the bolted belay/platform following the bolt line until the second perma. If the creek is low, aim directly for the lone bolt under the Janus perma-draw line instead. Either way involves the same technical climbing to get through the first 2 perma-draws before crossing (to the right) the Janus arete and pulling up onto a small ledge for a rest. Clip up as you leave your rest (back slightly to your left), then head through finger buckets (crimps) and side pulls until you reach a big flake for a biceps heavy rest. Climb the flake and oblique crack, and keep it together for the slab finish!
Unless the creek is low to non-existent, start as for "Janus" from the bolted belay/platform following the bolt line until the second perma. If the creek is low, aim directly for the lone bolt under the Janus perma-draw line instead. Either way involves the same technical climbing to get through the first 2 perma-draws before crossing (to the right) the Janus arete and pulling up onto a small ledge for a rest. Clip up as you leave your rest (back slightly to your left), then head through finger buckets (crimps) and side pulls until you reach a big flake for a biceps heavy rest. Climb the flake and oblique crack, and keep it together for the slab finish!
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