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Limbo

5.10-, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Ed Drummond 1966
International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > S West > Avon Gorge > Suspension Bridge But…

Description

Following up a clean line with a lovely dance on a face that makes much more sense when actually on the wall than from the ground.

E1 5b in UK grades
Climb the pockets in the vein of calcite to the left end of the ledge under the black bulge. Go up and left on pockets, and wander leftward onto the grey wall following holds as they come, before veering back to the resumed line of pockets. Continue up, and eventually traverse left to head up to the rock anchor shared with the Suspension Bridge Arete.

Location

Go up the mudslope with the rope, and exit right (as for Earl of Perth and Hell Gate).  Starts on the leftmost side of this section.

Protection

Wires, small cams, tricams if you like them. Thin slings for threads. Fixed pin. Rock anchor to rappel from.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Suspension Buttress Main Face
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1 Suspension Bridge Arete (HVS 5a)
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2 Suspense (HVS 5a)
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3 Baby Duck (E1 5b)
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4 Beginnings (E2 5c)
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5 Limbo (E1 5b)
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6 GT Special ('E4' 5c)
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7 Earl of Perth (E1 5b)
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8 Oblivion ('E3' 5c)
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9 Howhard (E1 5b)
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10 Hell Gates (HV
[Hide Photo] Suspension Buttress Main Face 1 Suspension Bridge Arete (HVS 5a) 2 Suspense (HVS 5a) 3 Baby Duck (E1 5b) 4 Beginnings (E2 5c) 5 Limbo (E1 5b) 6 GT Special ('E4' 5c) 7 Earl of Perth (E1 5b)…