Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Mexico
> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Oeste (W F…
> Main Wall
Gondwana
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A0
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Main Wall
|
|
Alas Del Viento (Wings of the Wind) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
Cadena Nebular S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Filo Noroccidental S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Gondwana S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, Aid, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 835 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Bosworth on Feb 17, 2019 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
The first three pitches (5.11, 5.10, 5.10) are beautiful although maybe slightly dirty with moss and lichen. Great balance climbing and sometimes some thorough searching for the next bolt before you move off!
The fourth pitch (5.12a), (in my opinion) the crux, is a sketchy scramble up loose rock leading to a sketchy traverse on crumbly rock which leads to tough technical climbing up sketchy, vertical, flakey rock to a nice hanging belay. A thoroughly great pitch to second! Be delegate!
The fifth pitch (5.11d) is the pitch you climb this route for, get right in the roof crack, good feet, nice 3D climbing, well bolted. Amazing place to be. The guide book shows two pitches here but there’s no belay along the roof, it’s all one pitch. I took some trad gear for this to aid. Ended up plugging a couple of micros and a small cam just to help with a couple moves.
Sixth pitch (5.10c/d) has a hard start by pulling the roof, then cruise up lots of holds (delecate) with some run out bolts.
One last scramble pitch to the top bolts and you’re there!
Rap the via Ferrara!
The fourth pitch (5.12a), (in my opinion) the crux, is a sketchy scramble up loose rock leading to a sketchy traverse on crumbly rock which leads to tough technical climbing up sketchy, vertical, flakey rock to a nice hanging belay. A thoroughly great pitch to second! Be delegate!
The fifth pitch (5.11d) is the pitch you climb this route for, get right in the roof crack, good feet, nice 3D climbing, well bolted. Amazing place to be. The guide book shows two pitches here but there’s no belay along the roof, it’s all one pitch. I took some trad gear for this to aid. Ended up plugging a couple of micros and a small cam just to help with a couple moves.
Sixth pitch (5.10c/d) has a hard start by pulling the roof, then cruise up lots of holds (delecate) with some run out bolts.
One last scramble pitch to the top bolts and you’re there!
Rap the via Ferrara!
Location
Take the trails from the car park in the general direction of the base of the west face (many trails get there and I’ve only been once so couldn’t say the best way!) Be prepared for some slight bush-whacking! Once at the base head left along the wall until you reach gray rock with a ledge about 10ft high with a belay bolt on it. This is the start!
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments