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Routes in Awesome Roof
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A Walk with Kirky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bitchin' High Traverse, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dinner with Dracula S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Freeloader S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Full Service Pump for Penelope S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Highway to Heaven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lil Pump S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Monkey in the Mirror S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pay at the Pump S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Penelope Says So S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pump Action Direct S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rock-About S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Silverback Pump S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Silverback Thruster S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Siphon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Turtle Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vanilla Sky S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 30.37867, -98.11334 |
| FA: | January 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,048 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | JLilStar _ on Feb 12, 2019 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
Description
A linkup. Start on the ground (not on the boulder you gumby) for Vanilla Sky and climb through the first 4 bolts. When you're on the big ledge at the 4th bolt, bust out left into the roof through some small holds until you reach the basketball-size hueco on Pay at the Pump. Shake out and then pull thru the vicious final crux of Pay at the Pump.
The FA of Pay at the Pump topped out the route, as did the FA of this route. If u don't top it out it doesn't count.
Standard Transmission [5.12d/5.13a]
Standard Transmission (currently no ascents?) is variation #2 to Pump Action Direct
Once you climb up to the cave on Pay at the Pump, climb leftward and exit on Siphon. Harder than Pump Action Direct and Lil Pump, because of the pump. Think of this as the inverse of Pay at the Pump, starting on the right and topping out on the left. Ya gotta drive a standard transmission if you're gonna pay at the pump.
Pump Up The James [soft second go 5.13a]
Pump Up The James (currently no ascents?) is variation #3 to Pump Action Direct
Once you climb up to the cave on Pay at the Pump, climb leftward and exit on Penelope Says So. Probably about as hard as Standard Transmission. Exiting could mean just standing on the ledge and observing the beautiful river, or it could be climbing 5 ft up to anchors, or you may as well just keep traversing Holladay Wall and finish out the traverse Monfi, it's 5.16a if you then downclimb Metamorphosis to the ground. James bc dedicated to my bloodline.
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