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> Crown Mountain
Widowmaker Arete
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 6
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Routes in Crown Mountain
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Crater Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Crater Couloir, Winter T AI2 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Widowmaker Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Henryk Mather and Les McDonald, 1960s |
| Page Views: | 3,745 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | Jack Forrester on Feb 9, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
A rambling climb up Crown Mountain's NE Arete. Mostly easy slab climbing is interspersed with short steep sections that can include finger cracks, blocky face climbing, and a wide crack pitch depending on which variation you take.
The start of the climb can be done in two ways; 1 - climb the long slab up an inside corner until the top of the ridge. From the ridge climb a steep face for one pitch. OR 2 - climb the headwall to the left of the slab all the way up to the ridge. At the top of this ridge you are on top of the steep face you would have climbed in first variation.
Continue up the ridge/arete across slabs and a few steeper pitches.
At the base of the last steep pitches there are several options to get to the top. From where the ridge meets the steep wall a wide crack goes straight up from the ridge. Skip the crack by taking a more blocky pitch to the left. Some sources have these final pitches as being 5.10-. From the top of this pitch an easy low 5th pitch will take you to the top of The Camel.
Rap down from the top of The Camel, and follow a trail with a fixed rope up to the top of Crown Mountain.
There are many variations, but it generally breaks down as follows:
P1-2: 5.8
P3-4: 3rd-4th Class
P5-6: 5.8
P7: 3rd Class
P8-10: 5.9
The start of the climb can be done in two ways; 1 - climb the long slab up an inside corner until the top of the ridge. From the ridge climb a steep face for one pitch. OR 2 - climb the headwall to the left of the slab all the way up to the ridge. At the top of this ridge you are on top of the steep face you would have climbed in first variation.
Continue up the ridge/arete across slabs and a few steeper pitches.
At the base of the last steep pitches there are several options to get to the top. From where the ridge meets the steep wall a wide crack goes straight up from the ridge. Skip the crack by taking a more blocky pitch to the left. Some sources have these final pitches as being 5.10-. From the top of this pitch an easy low 5th pitch will take you to the top of The Camel.
Rap down from the top of The Camel, and follow a trail with a fixed rope up to the top of Crown Mountain.
There are many variations, but it generally breaks down as follows:
P1-2: 5.8
P3-4: 3rd-4th Class
P5-6: 5.8
P7: 3rd Class
P8-10: 5.9
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