Strawberry Fields Forever
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Derek & Giselle Field (2019) |
Page Views: | 2,045 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | Derek Field on Jan 17, 2019 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Strawberry Fields Forever runs parallel to the Lucander-DeAngelo route (Strawberry Hill) on enjoyable cracks. The first two pitches are somewhat adventurous. Soloists and beginner leaders eat your hearts out on pitches 3 and 4 - the rock is good and the climbing is secure.
Pitch 1 (5.7, 130 feet): Climb a wide left-facing corner to the top of a miniature white pillar. Boulder up varnished stone into the chimney and enjoy the three-dimensional sandstone chamber. Belay at the top of the pillar.
Walk 30 feet left along the narrow crest of the pillar before dropping down into the gully. Muscle past a scrub oak to the base of a short left-facing corner/groove.
Pitch 2 (5.7, 60 feet): Climb the short left-facing corner/groove and walk 30 feet right along the ledge. Set a belay with nuts and small cams at the base of a juggy weakness in the short varnished overhang.
P2 direct variation (5.8+ R, 30 feet): From the P1 belay, go straight across the brushy gap and climb directly up the unprotected, crunchy face.
Pitch 3 (5.8, 170 feet): Monkey past the overhang on huge buckets to a crux mantel before setting cruise control for a long stretch of sustained 5.fun crack. At the top ledge, walk 20 feet right and belay in a short finger crack.
Pitch 4 (5.7, 180 feet): To start this pitch, you can either: (1) Climb the short fingercrack and then traverse 20 feet right across fins to gain the main crack, or (2) Move the belay 20 feet right into a nook directly below the main crack. Either way you're headed for an obvious wide crack with a right-facing flake on its left side. Climb up the crack about 80 feet to an easy step-across left into the flake, then ride the varnished flake up to a ledge belay.
Pitch 5 (5.5, 110 feet): Climb the pink summit knob via the obvious left-leaning crack.
Descent: As for all other routes on Strawberry Hill. Scramble down west to a dead tree make a series of rappels as described in the Strawberry Hill Buttress section.
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