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> Éperon des Cosmiques
Voie Rébuffat
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 22
votes
Routes in Éperon des Cosmiques
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Guiffra-Monaci T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Voie Rébuffat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Leroux (East Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bernard Pierre and Gaston Rébuffat - Aug 12, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 1,845 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Klassen on Jan 14, 2019 |
| Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
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Description
This moderate climb is punctuated by a huge roof in the middle of the 3rd pitch that goes free at 5.10a. Alternatively, you can aid through the few moves that the roof requires.
The setting, general quality of the climbing, and spectacular crux make this a worthwhile climb. This would be a 4-star climb if the climbing was more consistent.
Start on the far left hand side of the spur by scrambling up a gully, the moving right to start p1. If the gully is a trash shoot, an alternative (5.8) more direct start exists just below the end of the 1st pitch (see beta picture). This alternative is not the trade route and rock quality and route finding may be inconsistent with the rest of the route.
p1. (5.Easy) - Scramble directly right from the approach gully along a broken ledge system.
p2. (5.4) - Continue climbing right and up over a few steps until you reach a belay with the huge roof about 40-50 feet above you and to the right just a bit.
p3. (5.10a) - This is why you came here. Climb a broken crack system up before traversing right to the weakness in the roof. Pull through the roof (good cams and a pin) and build a belay a few feet above the roof.
p4-6. (5.8-5.9) - Continue up for a few hundred feet of moderate climbing through crack systems and ledges to the top. I vaguely remember some of the easier bits being a little run out, so get gear when you can.
The setting, general quality of the climbing, and spectacular crux make this a worthwhile climb. This would be a 4-star climb if the climbing was more consistent.
Start on the far left hand side of the spur by scrambling up a gully, the moving right to start p1. If the gully is a trash shoot, an alternative (5.8) more direct start exists just below the end of the 1st pitch (see beta picture). This alternative is not the trade route and rock quality and route finding may be inconsistent with the rest of the route.
p1. (5.Easy) - Scramble directly right from the approach gully along a broken ledge system.
p2. (5.4) - Continue climbing right and up over a few steps until you reach a belay with the huge roof about 40-50 feet above you and to the right just a bit.
p3. (5.10a) - This is why you came here. Climb a broken crack system up before traversing right to the weakness in the roof. Pull through the roof (good cams and a pin) and build a belay a few feet above the roof.
p4-6. (5.8-5.9) - Continue up for a few hundred feet of moderate climbing through crack systems and ledges to the top. I vaguely remember some of the easier bits being a little run out, so get gear when you can.
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