Arterial Spurt

A thin ice climb high on an NE facing Bowl of Mt. McGillivray.  Forms early in the season and then may sublime away later.  Has considerable avy hazard above.  Does not form every year.  

Pitch 1: Climb a small ice step (WI2 ~15 m) then a long snow slope to the bottom of pitch 2.  Pitch 2: Climb ~20 meters of WI3 ice to anchors on your left. Pitch 3: Climb ~55 meters more of WI3 Ice onto a snow slope to the base of the last ice pitch.  Anchors (if not buried) can be found to the left at the base of the last ice pitch.  (Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined, but you will need to make anchors with ice screws at the top of the ice on pitch 3, before the snow slope). Pitch 4: Climb the last pitch ~35 meters WI3 to a slung small tree.  

Descend by rapping from the small tree at the top of pitch 4 to anchors at the base of pitch 4.  (If the anchors can't be found, there is enough ice to v-thread here.)   Rap from anchors at the base of pitch 4 to the anchors at the base of pitch 3.  Rap from the base of pitch 3 to the snow slope below pitch 2 and then walk off climbers left to easier terrain down to the base of pitch one.  The rappels done above were done using two 60-m ropes.  

From the Heart Creek parking lot head west on the Bow Corridor Link Trail until you reach the first Drainage (less than 100 meters). Head up the left (climbers) side of the drainage. Flagging leads to a climber's trial (in the trees) that keeps you out of the drainage and avoids cliff bands halfway up the approach. After around 2 to 2.5 kilometers of hiking (~530 m elevation gain), you will break out into the bowl below the ice climb Arterial Spurts.

Small ice screws. Double ropes.