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The Great South Face Buttress of the Zig Zag Tower

Name: The Great South Face Buttress of the Zig Zag Tower
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Swagrocrag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fish Taco T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Great South Face Buttress of the Zig Zag Tower, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oblivious Old Man Route, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Tristan Burnham and Tori Monteleone June 2014
Page Views:	931 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Tristan Burnham on Dec 27, 2018
Admins:	jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route was done ground up onsite with a hand drill since its a wilderness area. Start at the base and follow a mellow 5.5 zig zag crack up for about 40 feet up to a slab. Follow 3 bolts up the blank slab and top out on a big ledge on top of the tower with a bolted anchor. From the top of the tower clip the anchor as your first piece and make an airy traverse out right for about 10 feet until you reach a crack. Make sure you back clean the first 2 cams in the crack so your follower isn't looking at a bad swing. Follow the cracks up until you merge into the cave section of Fish Taco. Belay here or continue up over an easy boulder problem and along the 4th class summit ridge. Walk off from the top.

P1 - 5.10a
P2 - 5.7
P3 - 5.4

Location

This is the first route you get to after scrambling to the base of the crag. From the boulders at the saddle of east twin ridge head down the gully and then scramble up the drainage to the base of the crag and look for the slabby zig zag cracks. The route is about 30 ft to the left of Fish Taco.