Type: Boulder, 13 ft (4 m)
FA: “Sketchy” John Berggren 2005
Page Views: 1,034 total · 13/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 22, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Originally called V5, I don’t think anybody sitting at the base of this and trying to slap that hueco would disagree with the upgrade. Start sitting with the left hand in a small pocket and right hand on a good edge at 3 feet (same edge as utilized on 'Drunken Sailor'). Find the key feet and slap to the large hueco. Originally this was done with a committing top out straight up, avoiding the large crystal on 'Man In The Boat'. Nowadays, most people climb this into 'Left Butt Cheek' and finish as for that line.

A fun problem with a hard first move. This has also been done from a slightly lower start, by starting matched on the two angled crimps/edges at 3 feet, which adds a some difficulty, but is a bit scrunched at the start!

Location Suggest change

Located in the center of the main face of the Bluff Boulder, below and slightly right of the starting holds of 'Man In The Boat'.

Protection Suggest change

A couple of pads.

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