Interview with a Psychopath
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 830 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | kenr on Nov 20, 2018 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
Variety of interesting climbing, with one significantly harder crux sequence.
Top-Rope is possible from the Pitch 2 top anchor for the route Beware of the Gong, with a directional through the two-bolt top anchor for this route.
Start on face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.
Up face past first piton onto wide platform, then up crack along right side of obvious left-trending gully, and where gully heads up straight, continue up in its right side. Finish with obvious crack in wall to right of gully, up to two-bolts-with-rings anchor just left of large tree.
warning: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.
Top-Rope is possible from the Pitch 2 top anchor for the route Beware of the Gong, with a directional through the two-bolt top anchor for this route.
Start on face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.
Up face past first piton onto wide platform, then up crack along right side of obvious left-trending gully, and where gully heads up straight, continue up in its right side. Finish with obvious crack in wall to right of gully, up to two-bolts-with-rings anchor just left of large tree.
warning: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.
Location
At face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.
- - > See line Y or line varW in this Photo
. . . . or line Y in this Photo
- - > See line Y or line varW in this Photo
. . . . or line Y in this Photo
Protection
Low pitons are old and rusty. Along the way are some bolt studs (perhaps damaged) with hangers removed.
Trad placements have been reported as inadequate. Medium sizes might be especially usefui?
Lower portion of pitch 1 could be done on Top-Rope from the anchor for another route -- see Variation 0 and Variation 1 of the route to its left.
Upper part could be done on Top-Rope from the Pitch 2 top anchor for the route "Beware of the Gong", with a directional through the top bolt anchor for this route.
Trad placements have been reported as inadequate. Medium sizes might be especially usefui?
Lower portion of pitch 1 could be done on Top-Rope from the anchor for another route -- see Variation 0 and Variation 1 of the route to its left.
Upper part could be done on Top-Rope from the Pitch 2 top anchor for the route "Beware of the Gong", with a directional through the top bolt anchor for this route.
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